Then you will the best out of the trip. I have met a German woman who came here for six weeks. Met her at Canning and we had talked a little bit. Poor woman, she left a luggage in the cab on the way in and lost her cell phone, camera and a bunch of stuffs. She is salsa dancer who took a few classes of tango. And there she is.
Met her again last night at Nino Bien, she came over to where I sat. She didn't have a good time. I took her out for a tanda. She didn't know how to do ocho cortado. She couldn't get good dances if she dances like this. She realized that and told me she would take a few classes before going to another milonga. I admired her courage, coming to BsAs alone without knowing much of tango nor spanish. She could have enjoyed the scene better if she is more ready. She is young and good looking. If she dances well, she would have been a darling of the milongas.
The other night at Canning, a woman from New York came over to where I sat. She's been dancing for about a year at the dance studio I used to take classes. I haven't seen her often at the milongas in NY, so I was surprised to see her. Apparently she would like to have a dance. I know how it feels to be alone in the milonga, times two while in a foreign land. Even though I knew it was not gonna to be very enjoyable , somehow I felt that it was the right thing to do.
Whenever I dance with someone, I always try my best. It was ten times harder to lead a beginner (even after her one year of studio learning) on the crowded and mixed level Canning floor. I had to make sure no accidents and no embarrassment. I was exhausted after two songs. "You should go to the milongas in NY more often" I mentioned to her during the break.
Every experience on the floors of BsAs' milongas is an unique one. I am in no position to say that don't come unless you are good dancers. Do come to experience the city by all means. But come prepared. Do some research, understand that except a few places (which I haven't been to) close embrace is the normal. Understand that when you accept a dance, then embrace the person like you embrace your family, your friend, your lover. A polite, ballroom style and cold embrace is a small offense to me. And understand that if you want to dance, don't be shy, look around for similar minded opposite sex, cabaceo is easier than you imagine.
Like in every other adventure, a good preparation ensures a better journey. May yours be just as good as, or better than, the fantastic one that I am having right now.
Off to La Ideal.
Friday, February 29, 2008
Day 7. Nino Bien
Went to Nino Bien early because Julio y Corina were teaching a group class. I watched them explained a few steps then sat down. Julio and Corina asked why I didn't join in. I smiled. Never again, group class.
It was just so happened that my table was right behind theirs. They were friendly people and of course maestros and great performers. But I couldn't see the steps that they taught being useful on a crowded floor. Later they danced to a milonga on the floor. It was beautiful to see.
And just as the class came to the end, I caught the sight of Tina and guess who: La Chemin Du Tango. It is a small tango world indeed. Later when a D'Arienzo tanda came up, I tried very hard to cabaceo her. And she caught it. She has nice embrace, feels light and follows very well. I enjoyed very bit of D'Arienzo with her.
Tina was popular. I couldn't get the chance to cabaceo her every time a good tanda came up. She was always on the floor. Finally one hour and half later, I saw her sitting down. Walked over and cabaceoed her. We had a nice tanda, but it was too crowded and too many not-so-good dancers around to have a great tanda. Hopefully at Consagrados on Saturday, we can finally be at our best.
Nino Bien is actually quite an international scene. Over fifty percent of the women are not portenas. And you can tell how tango has been developing in different parts of the world. I danced with a woman from Switzerland. She has the embrace and dance very well.
In my opinion, a lot of foreign women are as good, if not better, as the portenas. Few men could dance as good as the old milongueros. It is not the technique. There is something the old milongueros have that takes years to cultivate. Watching Tete dancing is quite an interesting experience. There is nothing special in his steps, but by watching him dancing with young woman :) I can feel the joy that radiates. Same with Ruben y Cherie, watching them dancing together, it is just fascinating.
The younger generation, however, doesn't have it. I have seen a lot of them perform and dance socially in the milonga. The connection is on the feet, not the heart. Too many figures, too many steps, too showy, lack of the magic that draws the hearts. It takes life experience to express the feeling in the music. Without the depth of life experience, then tango is no more than just another dance.
Cafeteria La Ideal martinee next...
It was just so happened that my table was right behind theirs. They were friendly people and of course maestros and great performers. But I couldn't see the steps that they taught being useful on a crowded floor. Later they danced to a milonga on the floor. It was beautiful to see.
And just as the class came to the end, I caught the sight of Tina and guess who: La Chemin Du Tango. It is a small tango world indeed. Later when a D'Arienzo tanda came up, I tried very hard to cabaceo her. And she caught it. She has nice embrace, feels light and follows very well. I enjoyed very bit of D'Arienzo with her.
Tina was popular. I couldn't get the chance to cabaceo her every time a good tanda came up. She was always on the floor. Finally one hour and half later, I saw her sitting down. Walked over and cabaceoed her. We had a nice tanda, but it was too crowded and too many not-so-good dancers around to have a great tanda. Hopefully at Consagrados on Saturday, we can finally be at our best.
Nino Bien is actually quite an international scene. Over fifty percent of the women are not portenas. And you can tell how tango has been developing in different parts of the world. I danced with a woman from Switzerland. She has the embrace and dance very well.
In my opinion, a lot of foreign women are as good, if not better, as the portenas. Few men could dance as good as the old milongueros. It is not the technique. There is something the old milongueros have that takes years to cultivate. Watching Tete dancing is quite an interesting experience. There is nothing special in his steps, but by watching him dancing with young woman :) I can feel the joy that radiates. Same with Ruben y Cherie, watching them dancing together, it is just fascinating.
The younger generation, however, doesn't have it. I have seen a lot of them perform and dance socially in the milonga. The connection is on the feet, not the heart. Too many figures, too many steps, too showy, lack of the magic that draws the hearts. It takes life experience to express the feeling in the music. Without the depth of life experience, then tango is no more than just another dance.
Cafeteria La Ideal martinee next...
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Day 7. Un tanda mas?
So I read this before: in BA, if you dance with the same person more than twice, then others might think that there is something going on between the two. I guess that the rule doesn't apply to milongas anywhere else. In NY, we often dance with the same partner a few times in a milonga. While in Rome, however, do as the Roman do. I followed the "codigo" well in BA.
This time I found this particular rule is no longer strictly followed. Or has it ever had such a codigo? At Consagrados, I danced with this young portena three times. Sunday night, at El Beso with the young portena who claims to be a lawyer actually cabaceoed me the second time. Last night, the portena in green dress twice. So now I am bit confused. Some women I would love to dance with more than one tanda. Sometimes when I cabaceoed someone in the middle of a tanda and found out we had good connection. Do I cabaceo her again?
I asked Ruben with help of Cherie. His answer is that it is OK to dance someone more than once in the milonga as long as not consecutively and the intention is to dance. And part of the reason that people don't dance more than one tanda together is that they could have chance to dance with others. That is, unless you are the best dancer in the milonga, according to Ruben, women, after having their best dance with you, don't want to dance with anyone else and then go home happily.
Maybe one day I could become this dancer who gives the best tanda. :) One day...
This time I found this particular rule is no longer strictly followed. Or has it ever had such a codigo? At Consagrados, I danced with this young portena three times. Sunday night, at El Beso with the young portena who claims to be a lawyer actually cabaceoed me the second time. Last night, the portena in green dress twice. So now I am bit confused. Some women I would love to dance with more than one tanda. Sometimes when I cabaceoed someone in the middle of a tanda and found out we had good connection. Do I cabaceo her again?
I asked Ruben with help of Cherie. His answer is that it is OK to dance someone more than once in the milonga as long as not consecutively and the intention is to dance. And part of the reason that people don't dance more than one tanda together is that they could have chance to dance with others. That is, unless you are the best dancer in the milonga, according to Ruben, women, after having their best dance with you, don't want to dance with anyone else and then go home happily.
Maybe one day I could become this dancer who gives the best tanda. :) One day...
Day 6. El Beso
Went to El Beso early and hoped to get to sit at a table. Nope, all taken. So I ended up hanging around by the bar area. Had a nice first tanda with a portena in a green dress, then I sat around for an hour and half without finding one to dance.
It is harder for a guy who is a relatively new face in a milonga to get good dances. Experience dancers don't look at you unless they have seen you dancing on the floor. The ones who easily accept your cabaceo are normally foreigners or not-so-good dancers.
Right now I don't mind not getting dances any more. I would rather have one or two great tanda a night then dancing 10 tandas. It is about the quality not the quantity. Like in everywhere else, I am building my dancer card one at a time. People will remember your face if you are good dancer. I am not worried about that. I spent more time watching the floor then being on the floor. It is a good learning experience to see different leads, follows and expressions of the music.
Talking about foreigners, I think a lot of them(me included) are better dancers. With different background and financial means, we are getting better in shorter amount of time. I have danced with some older portenas, only a few have the good overall feel.
Later, I danced with an middle age Italian woman from Bologna. She dances beautifully: good embrace, calm and smooth movement. Another portena of the same age: lean back posture, lift her feet in the dance which gave me a uncomfortable feeling, her following was just decent.
A good song came up, I wholebody was jazzing up. I looked around and caught the eyes of the first portena. Off we went to have a second tanda. The connection was better this time. The floor opened up, we danced more freely. I could hear her breathing.
I left around 2 am, another early night home. I had a decent time tonight. Two and half good tandas, not bad!
Tomorrow, Nino Bien. Julio y Carina are teaching before the milonga. So i will be there early. Maybe take some video to share. I am getting lazy with taking video and picture this time. Maybe I am less touristy. :)
It is harder for a guy who is a relatively new face in a milonga to get good dances. Experience dancers don't look at you unless they have seen you dancing on the floor. The ones who easily accept your cabaceo are normally foreigners or not-so-good dancers.
Right now I don't mind not getting dances any more. I would rather have one or two great tanda a night then dancing 10 tandas. It is about the quality not the quantity. Like in everywhere else, I am building my dancer card one at a time. People will remember your face if you are good dancer. I am not worried about that. I spent more time watching the floor then being on the floor. It is a good learning experience to see different leads, follows and expressions of the music.
Talking about foreigners, I think a lot of them(me included) are better dancers. With different background and financial means, we are getting better in shorter amount of time. I have danced with some older portenas, only a few have the good overall feel.
Later, I danced with an middle age Italian woman from Bologna. She dances beautifully: good embrace, calm and smooth movement. Another portena of the same age: lean back posture, lift her feet in the dance which gave me a uncomfortable feeling, her following was just decent.
A good song came up, I wholebody was jazzing up. I looked around and caught the eyes of the first portena. Off we went to have a second tanda. The connection was better this time. The floor opened up, we danced more freely. I could hear her breathing.
I left around 2 am, another early night home. I had a decent time tonight. Two and half good tandas, not bad!
Tomorrow, Nino Bien. Julio y Carina are teaching before the milonga. So i will be there early. Maybe take some video to share. I am getting lazy with taking video and picture this time. Maybe I am less touristy. :)
Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Day 6. Already?
Wow, don't feel that I have been here close to a week. Days have just gone by like a snap of finger. I am thinking about extending my stay till the 22nd. Some friends are coming down from New York during the CITA week. Love to hang out with them. It will be fun to hit the milongas together.
I am more settled in today. Went to supermarket-Disco to do some grocery shopping. I was fascinated by the price of a good bottle of red wine: 9 pesos, the more expensive ones are in the 40-60 pesos range. I was tempted to pick up a few bottles. But I shouldn't be drink any alcohol. It was hard to walk away from the wine section of the supermarket.
I got myself some beef tongue and rice from the cooked food section, some bread, cheese, milk, mate tea bag (I love it!), packaged salad and 6 gallon of water. The problem with the diet here is lack of variety of veggies. And I don't if it is my imagination, but I think things are getting expensive here. For everything that I got, I paid 72 pesos, close to 24 bucks US. Pretty expensive for two days supply. I am wondering how the portenos deal with living expenses. From what I heard, they don't earn as much here.
I took bus 95 back to the apartment. I now know how to take bus 60 to El beso, Zival from my apartment, bus 59 to Palermo, but still need to find the bus to Javier's place for privates starting next week, and to Nino Bien by tomorrow.
Resting the rest of the afternoon, listening to my newly purchased cds (25 of them, mostly Canaro, Troilo and D'Arienzo) and writing this post.
El Beso tonight.
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Day 5. Porteno y Bailarin
Woke up feeling muy cansado. Got an appointment for massage at twelve. Didn't even have breakfast. I could feel all the knots on my shoulder, back and legs. I felt soreness all over my body after. I need to have a few more sessions.
Javier is on the beach somewhere right now. I don't have any class schedule this week. So I decided to try a milonga class at the Escueia Argentina de Tango on Rodriguez Pena. There were only four students: me, a french man and a couple. There were two chicas, but they just wanted to dance with each other.
The teacher showed a few steps. The chicas played around by switching lead. And I gave my following virginity in BA to the French guy. Javier told me to learn how to follow. It would help me to understand how the woman would feel. And I felt the French man very nervous. I left thirty minutes after. And it was supposed to an hour and half class.
I took the bus, yes! the bus to Porteno y Bailarin. Cost only 90 cents ( a little over a quarter US). Great, I just save 7 peso. I am loving this bus exploration.
Porteno y Bailarin has changed its old wood floor to marble one. Based on my experience, it is going to take toll on feet if one dances all night long. I am still feeling the pain on my foot and knee from Sat. night at Sunderland.
Well, I don't have to worry about it. I didn't dance much. First of all, I didn't feel the music the whole night except one tanda of Di Sarli and one tanda of Lucio Demare. My friend told me on Sunday at El Beso that people are not going to P&B because of the music. She didn't have good dances at P&B. I have to agree with her.
I danced one tanda with a portena only because I saw both owners of P&B danced with her and she cabaceoed me. Her embrace was... so not Argentine.
My second tanda and the last one was with... Tina ! After all this blogging and comments, we finally met in person and got to dance a tanda of vals. I was watching her dancing before our tanda and enjoying her elegant, clean and playful footwork. She has wonderful embrace. I wished the floor wasn't so crowded at the time, so that I could have more connection with her. I guess there will be another time then.
I left shortly after our tanda. It was only two o'clock, still very early. Walked out on the street, I saw some familiar faces coming out from El Beso. I could have more dances at El Beso, but the one with Tina made up for them.
Javier is on the beach somewhere right now. I don't have any class schedule this week. So I decided to try a milonga class at the Escueia Argentina de Tango on Rodriguez Pena. There were only four students: me, a french man and a couple. There were two chicas, but they just wanted to dance with each other.
The teacher showed a few steps. The chicas played around by switching lead. And I gave my following virginity in BA to the French guy. Javier told me to learn how to follow. It would help me to understand how the woman would feel. And I felt the French man very nervous. I left thirty minutes after. And it was supposed to an hour and half class.
I took the bus, yes! the bus to Porteno y Bailarin. Cost only 90 cents ( a little over a quarter US). Great, I just save 7 peso. I am loving this bus exploration.
Porteno y Bailarin has changed its old wood floor to marble one. Based on my experience, it is going to take toll on feet if one dances all night long. I am still feeling the pain on my foot and knee from Sat. night at Sunderland.
Well, I don't have to worry about it. I didn't dance much. First of all, I didn't feel the music the whole night except one tanda of Di Sarli and one tanda of Lucio Demare. My friend told me on Sunday at El Beso that people are not going to P&B because of the music. She didn't have good dances at P&B. I have to agree with her.
I danced one tanda with a portena only because I saw both owners of P&B danced with her and she cabaceoed me. Her embrace was... so not Argentine.
My second tanda and the last one was with... Tina ! After all this blogging and comments, we finally met in person and got to dance a tanda of vals. I was watching her dancing before our tanda and enjoying her elegant, clean and playful footwork. She has wonderful embrace. I wished the floor wasn't so crowded at the time, so that I could have more connection with her. I guess there will be another time then.
I left shortly after our tanda. It was only two o'clock, still very early. Walked out on the street, I saw some familiar faces coming out from El Beso. I could have more dances at El Beso, but the one with Tina made up for them.
Monday, February 25, 2008
Day 4. Canning
That was it. Salon Canning is now officially on my shit list. I went there early in order to have a seat. I didn't have too much expectation anyway based on my last experience at Canning. So I sat there, chatted with a girl whom I got to know last night at El Beso.
Didn't really see anyone that I would like to dance with. Gringas who don't know how to cabeceo are probably newbies. Those who dance for a while want to dance with portenos. I saw a few women walking out in the middle of the tandas. And quite frankly, there were not that many good portenos around at Canning.
Saw Osvaldo Zotto y Lorena Emocida on the floor dancing one tanda. He was bumped four times in one song. He is such a classy guy. He offered a friendly gesture to the guy whenever there was an accident. Some big dude, who looked like a biginner, blocked his path at the beginning of the song. He was a bit upset, but he waited patiently till the foreigner moved away before he started to dance.
I didn't take my eyes off them until they reached the other end of the floor, out of my sight. They are such a graceful couple. They moved as if floating on the floor and flowing around quietly and smoothly. By watching them I could find myself breathing like in the state of meditation.
The only dance that I enjoyed was with some one from New York, whom just danced five months. Her embrace was so comfortable, even better than some portenas'. She followed extremely well. I felt ease to navigate around the crowed floor with her. I would have danced a second tanda with her if I didn't have to converse with a student of Javier.
The woman saw me greeting with Marite and approached me at the end of the night. She started the conversation. She is also studying under Javier and Bichi. She wanted to have a dance.
Hugo Diaz was playing. I told her that I don't dance this music. She said: "Why? It is nice music. I dance everything."
"I am particular with music. I have music that I don't dance to." I told her, "Let's dance when the music is right."
Finally, a tanda of Di Sarli started. We walked on the floor. It was past four in the morning and the floor opened up. The moment I embraced her, I didn't feel it. She has the same problem with a lot of gringas: the torso feel like a block. It felt stiff and cold. Even though she claimed to be a former ballet dancers, I have had much better embrace than that. I mean the five month beginner embraced me better than her. I can't even walk long with worries that she would pull me off balance. There was a reason why she had been sitting in front of me the whole night and I didn't cabaceo her.
We talked about a bit of styles and learning experience with Javier. It seemed that we had some differences. She started from Nuevo and fantasia, I have been always a traditional guy. Well, I was once again missing the girl with whom I danced at Sunderland. Where has she been dancing?
Didn't really see anyone that I would like to dance with. Gringas who don't know how to cabeceo are probably newbies. Those who dance for a while want to dance with portenos. I saw a few women walking out in the middle of the tandas. And quite frankly, there were not that many good portenos around at Canning.
Saw Osvaldo Zotto y Lorena Emocida on the floor dancing one tanda. He was bumped four times in one song. He is such a classy guy. He offered a friendly gesture to the guy whenever there was an accident. Some big dude, who looked like a biginner, blocked his path at the beginning of the song. He was a bit upset, but he waited patiently till the foreigner moved away before he started to dance.
I didn't take my eyes off them until they reached the other end of the floor, out of my sight. They are such a graceful couple. They moved as if floating on the floor and flowing around quietly and smoothly. By watching them I could find myself breathing like in the state of meditation.
The only dance that I enjoyed was with some one from New York, whom just danced five months. Her embrace was so comfortable, even better than some portenas'. She followed extremely well. I felt ease to navigate around the crowed floor with her. I would have danced a second tanda with her if I didn't have to converse with a student of Javier.
The woman saw me greeting with Marite and approached me at the end of the night. She started the conversation. She is also studying under Javier and Bichi. She wanted to have a dance.
Hugo Diaz was playing. I told her that I don't dance this music. She said: "Why? It is nice music. I dance everything."
"I am particular with music. I have music that I don't dance to." I told her, "Let's dance when the music is right."
Finally, a tanda of Di Sarli started. We walked on the floor. It was past four in the morning and the floor opened up. The moment I embraced her, I didn't feel it. She has the same problem with a lot of gringas: the torso feel like a block. It felt stiff and cold. Even though she claimed to be a former ballet dancers, I have had much better embrace than that. I mean the five month beginner embraced me better than her. I can't even walk long with worries that she would pull me off balance. There was a reason why she had been sitting in front of me the whole night and I didn't cabaceo her.
We talked about a bit of styles and learning experience with Javier. It seemed that we had some differences. She started from Nuevo and fantasia, I have been always a traditional guy. Well, I was once again missing the girl with whom I danced at Sunderland. Where has she been dancing?
Day 4. Monday, holiday
While the city gets into its gear, a turista like me takes the day off. Today I am gonna stay in a bit. Maybe run around the cemetery, have lunch and take a nap before going on a bus trip to Neotango.
Thanks to Tangocandy, I went to the newsstand and bought a MiniGuia de Buenos Aires. I sort of figure out how to get to Riobamba (El Beso and Porteno y Bailarin) from Recoleta. And it is pretty straight forward. But I have yet figured out how to get back because Riobamba is a one way street. I have to take another bus back. Which one, I have no clue. But last night the cab ride cost only 7 peso ($2.50). So worst comes to worst, I will take a cab back.
I am picking up some Castellano from the Milonga. A young chica with who I danced one song at Sunderland taught me a few words last night. She just started dancing but has this embrace that is unmistakably Argentine, warm and comfortable. And an Americana from Seattle, who in her own right deserves a separate post (I even have the title: the mind of a typical American who dances open) but I am not gonna write it because she is a smart, beautiful and likable person, corrected me on the pronunciation of ll.
I got around all right with the 7 words and phrases that I know. Now armed with bigger vocabulary, maybe I will start a conversation with one of these hot chicas at the bar very soon. Or is it just something that I dream about? LOL.
Day 3. Lo De Celia y El Beso, Ruben's empanada.
It has been a long day. Where do I start?
How about a porteno asked me how was the girl with whom I just danced, at the end of the night at El Beso? I thought he was debating if he should cabeceo her. That put me on the spot. She was a nice person, but her posture was straight, and anticipated a lot. I had a OK tanda with her.
I didn't want to lie to the old guy. It looks like he is a regular at El Beso. But I don't want to badmouth anyone either. So I hesitated and responded: "Maybe it is me."
"It is not you, you are good dancers." He said in heavily accented English.
I got to El Beso early and saw the now-resident-of-BsAs from RI. She is a very nice person. She invited me to sit with them. I danced with her and her friends to start the night. Then a cabeceo to a young portena whom told me she is a lawyer. I was surprised. Thought she is only 20 something. We had a very nice vals tanda and so happened we were dancing in front of Tete and stopped at his table at the end of one song.
He said something to her. And then I saw him dancing with her at the next tanda. A few tanda later, she actually cabeceoed me for a tanda of milonga, which was a mistake. I don't have the traspie down yet. She missed a few steps. So I finished the rest in Lisa. She has been dancing for ten years and was surprised when I told her I've danced only two years.
There was an Asian woman who danced fantastically. I didn't catch the chance to cabeceo her. I kept a note for myself. I was a little disappointed the gringa, whom I met last night and had a great Pugliese tanda, was here tonight. I missed dancing with her. I could still remember the detail of the tanda, the moves, the connection, the conversation and the embrace. I hope to dance with her again.
Earlier of the day, we went to Lo De Celia, a martinee milonga like Consagrados, catering the local. There are only three turistas here: us (a Chino from NY, a chica from Norway and a gringo from LA).
I was dead tired by the time we sat down. Didn't see anyone I like to dance. The thing I like about the milongas in BA is that you can chat, order a drink and listen to the music. I had a great time talking to Cherie and Ruben about the music, a bit of gossips and other things. I danced a few with Cherie, the chica from Norway and una amiga del Ruben. The floor is marble, a bit too smooth for me to feel the floor. And I was bushed out and thinking about keeping some gas in the tank for later at El Beso.
We left around 10:30pm and I went to El Beso by myself.
I ordered two empanadas when I got to El Beso. I was hungry. But the best empanadas I had was made by Ruben. I had sampled quite a few in the afternoon before heading to La Celia. We had wine, champagne, the best empanada in town, and some helatos. I was tired but feeling very good. Good friends, tasty empanada, good wines and tango...
Life has been good so far in BsAs.
How about a porteno asked me how was the girl with whom I just danced, at the end of the night at El Beso? I thought he was debating if he should cabeceo her. That put me on the spot. She was a nice person, but her posture was straight, and anticipated a lot. I had a OK tanda with her.
I didn't want to lie to the old guy. It looks like he is a regular at El Beso. But I don't want to badmouth anyone either. So I hesitated and responded: "Maybe it is me."
"It is not you, you are good dancers." He said in heavily accented English.
I got to El Beso early and saw the now-resident-of-BsAs from RI. She is a very nice person. She invited me to sit with them. I danced with her and her friends to start the night. Then a cabeceo to a young portena whom told me she is a lawyer. I was surprised. Thought she is only 20 something. We had a very nice vals tanda and so happened we were dancing in front of Tete and stopped at his table at the end of one song.
He said something to her. And then I saw him dancing with her at the next tanda. A few tanda later, she actually cabeceoed me for a tanda of milonga, which was a mistake. I don't have the traspie down yet. She missed a few steps. So I finished the rest in Lisa. She has been dancing for ten years and was surprised when I told her I've danced only two years.
There was an Asian woman who danced fantastically. I didn't catch the chance to cabeceo her. I kept a note for myself. I was a little disappointed the gringa, whom I met last night and had a great Pugliese tanda, was here tonight. I missed dancing with her. I could still remember the detail of the tanda, the moves, the connection, the conversation and the embrace. I hope to dance with her again.
Earlier of the day, we went to Lo De Celia, a martinee milonga like Consagrados, catering the local. There are only three turistas here: us (a Chino from NY, a chica from Norway and a gringo from LA).
I was dead tired by the time we sat down. Didn't see anyone I like to dance. The thing I like about the milongas in BA is that you can chat, order a drink and listen to the music. I had a great time talking to Cherie and Ruben about the music, a bit of gossips and other things. I danced a few with Cherie, the chica from Norway and una amiga del Ruben. The floor is marble, a bit too smooth for me to feel the floor. And I was bushed out and thinking about keeping some gas in the tank for later at El Beso.
We left around 10:30pm and I went to El Beso by myself.
I ordered two empanadas when I got to El Beso. I was hungry. But the best empanadas I had was made by Ruben. I had sampled quite a few in the afternoon before heading to La Celia. We had wine, champagne, the best empanada in town, and some helatos. I was tired but feeling very good. Good friends, tasty empanada, good wines and tango...
Life has been good so far in BsAs.
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Day 2. Sunderland club.
A 22 peso cab ride and half an hour later, I was at the famous Sunderland club. The first driver didn't even want to go. The one who took me there was pissed because I didn't have exact change. The moment I got off the cab, I saw a guy from New York. Great!
Inside, I asked for the table of Maxi Copello. It was the last one, the host told me. I couldn't find it, stood there like ten minutes and finally caught my friend. The place was jammed packed. I saw two gringas whom I know from last time. Some greeting and they were surprised to see me again.
Danced with my friend for a milonga tanda. The floor was impossible. Even though the place was packed with stars, but the people on the pista were mixed. Some good ones, but a lot of showboats who danced with no regards of the others.
One of the woman whom I know danced with me a tanda and got kicked three times. Even though it was not my fault, as she said, but I felt stupid and embarrassed. I was very good at floor craft. This tanda was the worst one because never in my life before I had a woman in my care gotten kicked three times in a tanda. She was upset about the whole scene, I can't blame her.
The other gringa was so much better, yet still some fucking hot shot made a hugh step and had his partner's heel in my partner's foot. The fucking guy just danced away without a blink of an eye. I guess that our foreigners are second class dancers on the floor. Fuck you very much, asshole.
J, the other gringa who I met at the milongas last year, impressed me. We danced a tanda of Pugliese and I must say that was the best tanda that I had. Her embrace was so good. And in three months time, she got so Argentine, I felt like I was dancing with Andrea Misse. She told me she will be coming back to the states later this year. I lobbied her to move to New York. Gee, how can some one get so good in the matter of three months, I mean other than myself. :)
But seriously, she made me feel hope about American tango dancers. Or is she just an Argentine transplant? I long for a partner like her.
Anyway, I sat around and had another dance with a chica. Still other than having seen the known names like Geraldine y Ezequiel and every one else, the place is not yet my favourite. It is too far, too crowded, not too good floor craft ( Some young hot shot was blocking an obviously well known milonguer, whom was frowning at the young guy while trying to protect his partner.). I would have gone to Maipu 444 if it weren't for the invite of my friend.
The stars are just some normal people who happen to dance better than the rest of us. It makes no sense to be there just for the sake of seeing them. After all, for me tango is between two people. I would care less about everything else. I enjoyed Los Consagrados better. Thank god I had a great Pugliese tanda with J. Otherwise, Sunderland would be on my not-to- visit-again list.
Inside, I asked for the table of Maxi Copello. It was the last one, the host told me. I couldn't find it, stood there like ten minutes and finally caught my friend. The place was jammed packed. I saw two gringas whom I know from last time. Some greeting and they were surprised to see me again.
Danced with my friend for a milonga tanda. The floor was impossible. Even though the place was packed with stars, but the people on the pista were mixed. Some good ones, but a lot of showboats who danced with no regards of the others.
One of the woman whom I know danced with me a tanda and got kicked three times. Even though it was not my fault, as she said, but I felt stupid and embarrassed. I was very good at floor craft. This tanda was the worst one because never in my life before I had a woman in my care gotten kicked three times in a tanda. She was upset about the whole scene, I can't blame her.
The other gringa was so much better, yet still some fucking hot shot made a hugh step and had his partner's heel in my partner's foot. The fucking guy just danced away without a blink of an eye. I guess that our foreigners are second class dancers on the floor. Fuck you very much, asshole.
J, the other gringa who I met at the milongas last year, impressed me. We danced a tanda of Pugliese and I must say that was the best tanda that I had. Her embrace was so good. And in three months time, she got so Argentine, I felt like I was dancing with Andrea Misse. She told me she will be coming back to the states later this year. I lobbied her to move to New York. Gee, how can some one get so good in the matter of three months, I mean other than myself. :)
But seriously, she made me feel hope about American tango dancers. Or is she just an Argentine transplant? I long for a partner like her.
Anyway, I sat around and had another dance with a chica. Still other than having seen the known names like Geraldine y Ezequiel and every one else, the place is not yet my favourite. It is too far, too crowded, not too good floor craft ( Some young hot shot was blocking an obviously well known milonguer, whom was frowning at the young guy while trying to protect his partner.). I would have gone to Maipu 444 if it weren't for the invite of my friend.
The stars are just some normal people who happen to dance better than the rest of us. It makes no sense to be there just for the sake of seeing them. After all, for me tango is between two people. I would care less about everything else. I enjoyed Los Consagrados better. Thank god I had a great Pugliese tanda with J. Otherwise, Sunderland would be on my not-to- visit-again list.
Day 2. los Consagrados
This is a local milonga on Saturday afternoon at Nino Bien, Humberto Primero 1462. Only a few gringos y gringas, y uno Chino. I went out around 5:00pm, took the bus to Plaza Italia to catch D train. It took me about an hour to get to Neotango, which turned out closed at 4:00pm on Saturday. Most of the stores had their gates down. Not a good sign for economy.
Anyway, took a cab and got to Nino Bien. Met with Ruben at the door. From my understanding, Cherie would be late. It amazed me how far I got with the very limited spanish I know. Sat down, ordered the Champagne, and eveything was so familiar. Every one was at their regular tables.
My first dance is with a beautiful Argentine, whom Reben raved about. But I knew her already, danced with her at La Ideal once. Apparently she remembered me, a cabaceo later we met at the floor. I was glad to have my first dance with her. She told me I am a very good dancer. Coming from a portena, it was a good compliment.
My favourite arrived. She was surprised to see me. She looks the same; same dress, same necklace. Everything is so familiar. We had total three tandas. I didn't know what rules I have broken. Will have to check with Cherie and Ruben again for some update on the codigo.
Had a wonderful tanda with Cherie, although I messed up a few times. But watching her and Ruben dancing a tanda of milonga, they were amazing, the best on the floor. I stole a few steps from Ruben, I guess I would have to get him a nice bottle of wine tomorrow at the Empanada gathering.
Ruben is a sweet guy. He constantly told me who was good dancer. I danced with a round figure chica he recommended, and it was good. I regretted afthat I didn't cabaceo her at the beginning of the tanda rather in the middle of it. Hopefully she is going to be around next week.
It got to the end of the milonga. One portena pointed her finger at me, yes you, you forgot to ask me for a tanda. She is the regular here, and a very good dancer, light as feather. This time I felt that I could lead her much better.
Apparently she agreed. She gave me compliment during the break, but also some tips at the last one. I had to relax my left shoulder, she felt the tension. She was right, I did feel a bit tensed. We danced the last one.
It was 10:00pm. And I was hungry from dancing all these tandas. Said goodbye to Cherie and Ruben I headed back to the apartment. Sunderland was next...
Anyway, took a cab and got to Nino Bien. Met with Ruben at the door. From my understanding, Cherie would be late. It amazed me how far I got with the very limited spanish I know. Sat down, ordered the Champagne, and eveything was so familiar. Every one was at their regular tables.
My first dance is with a beautiful Argentine, whom Reben raved about. But I knew her already, danced with her at La Ideal once. Apparently she remembered me, a cabaceo later we met at the floor. I was glad to have my first dance with her. She told me I am a very good dancer. Coming from a portena, it was a good compliment.
My favourite arrived. She was surprised to see me. She looks the same; same dress, same necklace. Everything is so familiar. We had total three tandas. I didn't know what rules I have broken. Will have to check with Cherie and Ruben again for some update on the codigo.
Had a wonderful tanda with Cherie, although I messed up a few times. But watching her and Ruben dancing a tanda of milonga, they were amazing, the best on the floor. I stole a few steps from Ruben, I guess I would have to get him a nice bottle of wine tomorrow at the Empanada gathering.
Ruben is a sweet guy. He constantly told me who was good dancer. I danced with a round figure chica he recommended, and it was good. I regretted afthat I didn't cabaceo her at the beginning of the tanda rather in the middle of it. Hopefully she is going to be around next week.
It got to the end of the milonga. One portena pointed her finger at me, yes you, you forgot to ask me for a tanda. She is the regular here, and a very good dancer, light as feather. This time I felt that I could lead her much better.
Apparently she agreed. She gave me compliment during the break, but also some tips at the last one. I had to relax my left shoulder, she felt the tension. She was right, I did feel a bit tensed. We danced the last one.
It was 10:00pm. And I was hungry from dancing all these tandas. Said goodbye to Cherie and Ruben I headed back to the apartment. Sunderland was next...
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Day 2. Sunderland
Just got a phone call from a friend. Tonight it is the birthday celebration of an old milonguero at Sunderland. I am invited to sit with her at the table of Carlos and Maxi Copello. Los Consagrados in the afternoon and head out to Sunderland after. It is gonna be a great first night for tango. I can't wait.
I am going out to have a hair cut. Then Neotango for new pairs of shoes.
I am going out to have a hair cut. Then Neotango for new pairs of shoes.
Day 2.
Woke up in the morning and had a stiff neck. Maybe it is the bed. The only problem with the apartment is that it is on a busy street. So the noise level is high during daytime and higher when the happy hours arrives at night. I could still hear conversation on the street at 3:00am this morning. I don't know how I am gonna survive three weeks like this, but will see. How do you say ear plug in Spanish?
The weather is bit muggy after the rain. It is not the kind of weather I like, but better humid than cold. Beside, the apartment has AC. So I will probably spend most of the daytime at the apartment working.
Went out to get some media luna for breakfast. There is no coffee filter at the apartment and couldn't find any around either. So I ended up at MacDonald to get my caffeine fix. Walked around the neighborhood, found a couple of spas, bakeries, boutiques and a wine store. Restaurants are everywhere. Lots of bars.
With my little Spanish, I got around making an appointment for massage (60 peso =less than ed$20 an hour) at the spa next block and left my shirts to be ironed. I learned a few new words: camisa, plancha, masaje.
I am liking the hood. Now if only I can figure out how to get around by bus. It is wasting to go around in cab, especially just to do some grocery shopping.
The weather is bit muggy after the rain. It is not the kind of weather I like, but better humid than cold. Beside, the apartment has AC. So I will probably spend most of the daytime at the apartment working.
Went out to get some media luna for breakfast. There is no coffee filter at the apartment and couldn't find any around either. So I ended up at MacDonald to get my caffeine fix. Walked around the neighborhood, found a couple of spas, bakeries, boutiques and a wine store. Restaurants are everywhere. Lots of bars.
With my little Spanish, I got around making an appointment for massage (60 peso =less than ed$20 an hour) at the spa next block and left my shirts to be ironed. I learned a few new words: camisa, plancha, masaje.
I am liking the hood. Now if only I can figure out how to get around by bus. It is wasting to go around in cab, especially just to do some grocery shopping.
Friday, February 22, 2008
Day 1.
I am here. It is so familiar, except the remise fare went up 15 peso in less than three month. The apartment locates a block from the Recoleta cemetery. One Irish pub and a restaurant called los porteno sit across the street. Bars, clubs, cinema are around the corner.
I went out with the rental agent, whom happens to be a expat from Houston, to the Locos sports bar to have a beer, watch a NBA game and check out the local hot babes. He told that these are what made him stay: the beautiful argentine women and the wine. Hey, whatever makes you happy bro. I told him.
Too tired to hit the milonga. Beside, it is Friday night. I don't have a favourite on Friday. Tomorrow, today rather, I will see Cherie y Ruben at Los Consagrados, then head down to Maipu 444. First thing first, gotta figure out how to take the bus to D line. It is going to be an adventure for me, taking the bus.
I went out with the rental agent, whom happens to be a expat from Houston, to the Locos sports bar to have a beer, watch a NBA game and check out the local hot babes. He told that these are what made him stay: the beautiful argentine women and the wine. Hey, whatever makes you happy bro. I told him.
Too tired to hit the milonga. Beside, it is Friday night. I don't have a favourite on Friday. Tomorrow, today rather, I will see Cherie y Ruben at Los Consagrados, then head down to Maipu 444. First thing first, gotta figure out how to take the bus to D line. It is going to be an adventure for me, taking the bus.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Two days
before I take off to the Tangoland. I am less excited this time. Maybe it is because I have gone and come back less than three months ago. Or maybe it is because lately I have been having good time out dancing in NY. Or maybe I have had quite a few things on my plate since I booked the trip; I need to redo my kitchen floor and renovate the bathroom, finish my two year old project, do a overdue medical check up, plan a trip to Asia.
For past year or so, tango has taken over my life: dancing four to six times a week, watching thousands of youtube clips, spending hours writing and reading tango blogs, listening to the music over and over. It has been an incredible ride, the way that I have soaked up tango in just two years. And I start getting it: the music, the connection and the embrace... the ability to lead the woman dreaming in the dance.
But where do I go from here? With the exception of few, most of the women who I've danced with need much work on the embrace, posture, walk, let alone the concept of active following. I have been having good time, but only occasionally that I can truly immerse in the music and uninhibitedly share my feeling. The better that I get, the more I feel unsatisfied. I feel like I am giving more than I receive in the dance. I know there are still a lot for me to improve on, but what is the point?
Maybe it is time for me to slow it down. Just let tango be a part of life, not my life.
For past year or so, tango has taken over my life: dancing four to six times a week, watching thousands of youtube clips, spending hours writing and reading tango blogs, listening to the music over and over. It has been an incredible ride, the way that I have soaked up tango in just two years. And I start getting it: the music, the connection and the embrace... the ability to lead the woman dreaming in the dance.
But where do I go from here? With the exception of few, most of the women who I've danced with need much work on the embrace, posture, walk, let alone the concept of active following. I have been having good time, but only occasionally that I can truly immerse in the music and uninhibitedly share my feeling. The better that I get, the more I feel unsatisfied. I feel like I am giving more than I receive in the dance. I know there are still a lot for me to improve on, but what is the point?
Maybe it is time for me to slow it down. Just let tango be a part of life, not my life.
Monday, February 18, 2008
An interesting website about tango
from a local tanguero.
www.tangoprinciples.org
Check it out. May learn a few things.
www.tangoprinciples.org
Check it out. May learn a few things.
Thursday, February 14, 2008
The milonga business
From the facebook, I learned that the DJ and host of the popular Sunday milonga has ended his tenure abruptly. The host is a friendly guy and a well known DJ. Shortly after the news, there is a group created to call for boycotting that milonga on facebook. I can understand the sentiment. I am not gonna join the group but I won't patronize that milonga for sure. I have never liked the piso.
The place was pathetically slow last winter. The departed host has revived it this season and turned it into the place to go on Sunday. The few times that I had gone I enjoyed it even though I didn't dance that much. The music has always been good and the energy was better than most of the milongas in town. I am sure that the business end has been good as well: for a miserable 4 couples a night to 80-100 people. You do the math. It will be interesting to know how this milonga will be doing without this beloved DJ and host.
The milonga business is somewhat tricky. There are so many elements involved: music, floor, location, host, timing and weather. Some milongas never gain popularity. Some attract only certain types of patrons. Some have been always been the place to go on the particular date. Some have gone from crowded to deserted. Few take off like this one.
My Wednesday night regular hasn't been doing well in attendances for a while. I haven't been getting quality dances there much for a while. A few times I thought about not going.
My DJ friend has been doing quite well with the music. The location is all right: two, three blocks from the subway station thought way downtown. The size of the piso is decent. The hosts, eh, are so so to say the least. They are nice people and Argentine. But somehow, they just seem not getting it. Lately no much promotion effort has been spent. I haven't seen some regulars for a while. No new faces. Some regulars have been leaving early. I have a feeling that it is going downhill.
Milonga is a business and a competitive one in this town. The customer base is limited yet new milongas are announced on a regular basis. It is very simple business based on attendance. Attendance is up, profit increases.
But what makes one go to certain milonga? Great music, good dancers, welcoming environment, free beers (wishful thinking)... whatever it is or they are, hosts, it is your job to find out.
The place was pathetically slow last winter. The departed host has revived it this season and turned it into the place to go on Sunday. The few times that I had gone I enjoyed it even though I didn't dance that much. The music has always been good and the energy was better than most of the milongas in town. I am sure that the business end has been good as well: for a miserable 4 couples a night to 80-100 people. You do the math. It will be interesting to know how this milonga will be doing without this beloved DJ and host.
The milonga business is somewhat tricky. There are so many elements involved: music, floor, location, host, timing and weather. Some milongas never gain popularity. Some attract only certain types of patrons. Some have been always been the place to go on the particular date. Some have gone from crowded to deserted. Few take off like this one.
My Wednesday night regular hasn't been doing well in attendances for a while. I haven't been getting quality dances there much for a while. A few times I thought about not going.
My DJ friend has been doing quite well with the music. The location is all right: two, three blocks from the subway station thought way downtown. The size of the piso is decent. The hosts, eh, are so so to say the least. They are nice people and Argentine. But somehow, they just seem not getting it. Lately no much promotion effort has been spent. I haven't seen some regulars for a while. No new faces. Some regulars have been leaving early. I have a feeling that it is going downhill.
Milonga is a business and a competitive one in this town. The customer base is limited yet new milongas are announced on a regular basis. It is very simple business based on attendance. Attendance is up, profit increases.
But what makes one go to certain milonga? Great music, good dancers, welcoming environment, free beers (wishful thinking)... whatever it is or they are, hosts, it is your job to find out.
Friday, February 8, 2008
Two years, Two weeks, Two times
Two years ago, at 1:00pm every Saturday afternoon in Feburary, six people, two guys and four young and beautiful women took their first steps in tango with the fabulous Mariana Galassi . One of them has turned into a tango junkie.
For the next six months, I had taken average six to eight group classes and practiced four to six hours a week. I watched thousands of youtube videos related to the keyword: tango. Yet, I hesitated to step in the milonga world. The idea of being rejected hindered me.
I can't remember anything about my first milonga but my heart was beating fast the whole night. The feeling of being turned down by a woman often haunted me till I came back from Buenos Aires. I had stepped on toes, bumped knees and grazed breasts. I had struggled, frustrated and lost...
Now I am mostly calm and confident. I know the way that I want to dance tango. I begin to understand how to dance the music with my body, how to follow the woman and how to connect. And I am expanding my dance card one woman at a time. All these happened because I went to Buenos Aires...
In two weeks, I will be heading back to Buenos Aires the second time in four months. Other than taking more privates with Javier Rodriguez and Andrea Misse again, I will be looking into group classes with Geraldine Rojas and Ezequiel Paludi, Julio and Corina at Nino Bien and Canning, and El Flaco 's milonga traspie at la Escuela Argentina de Tango. Or maybe not. I want to know the city a bit more. I want to relax, chill out and have fun. Some friends are going to be there around the same time.
It is gonna be better second time around...
For the next six months, I had taken average six to eight group classes and practiced four to six hours a week. I watched thousands of youtube videos related to the keyword: tango. Yet, I hesitated to step in the milonga world. The idea of being rejected hindered me.
I can't remember anything about my first milonga but my heart was beating fast the whole night. The feeling of being turned down by a woman often haunted me till I came back from Buenos Aires. I had stepped on toes, bumped knees and grazed breasts. I had struggled, frustrated and lost...
Now I am mostly calm and confident. I know the way that I want to dance tango. I begin to understand how to dance the music with my body, how to follow the woman and how to connect. And I am expanding my dance card one woman at a time. All these happened because I went to Buenos Aires...
In two weeks, I will be heading back to Buenos Aires the second time in four months. Other than taking more privates with Javier Rodriguez and Andrea Misse again, I will be looking into group classes with Geraldine Rojas and Ezequiel Paludi, Julio and Corina at Nino Bien and Canning, and El Flaco 's milonga traspie at la Escuela Argentina de Tango. Or maybe not. I want to know the city a bit more. I want to relax, chill out and have fun. Some friends are going to be there around the same time.
It is gonna be better second time around...
Thursday, February 7, 2008
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