"You want to put woman into sleep in the music with you." Javier said and Andrea translated. Hence the adjustment on the embrace, the posture and the walk; get rid of the little nuisance that disturbs the tranquility and learn to respect her space and her balance.
Use the body to lead, use the mind to dance, listen to the music, listen to her body. Keep these in mind, then one would not fixate on leading the steps but the quality of each step. It may sound abstract and it is difficult to do. One's body has to develop the muscle and strength to move smoothly.
If you watch old milongueros dancing, their upper body maintain at even level regardless what they are doing with their feet. Upper body movement is smooth, circular and calm even though D'Arienzo is playing. Less is more: less movement, deeper connection.
"Let her dream in your embrace and in the dance. Don't wake her up..." ---Javier Rodriguez
A lot of people say and teach close embrace as two persons hugging each other, like friends, lovers and family. That is probably the biggest misconception. Granted, there are many different ways to embrace in tango, and the embrace is changing and readjusting throughout the dance. If you watch a lot of youtube clips and pay attention to the best (or ex best) dancers' embraces, you will find similar characteristics.
This is the embrace that is taught by Javier and Andrea. Man, the leader, opens his chest, feels it expand grande but not to stick out his sternum; left palm faces his left ears, relaxes his shoulders and chest; tucks his navel in, tightens his abs and rib cage (requires works on your core); and breathe in your chest. Then he invites the woman to come to his embrace, by holding her right hand up and over without any tension of pulling, embrace her at the level of the bottom of her breasts line, as if he places her breast over his chest and lift/support them by natural expanding his chest.
The woman, the follower, comes to the man, places her chest over his, as if she hangs herself on his chest with hers; and her left arm places naturally over the man's shoulder or upper arm, sometimes her left palm presses in and upward to allow better connection with the man without weighing on him.
In this embrace, the contact and connection is on the chest and no other parts of the body. I find more freedom for both to move. And the woman gets much better sensation which I will talk about in "Don't wake her up". This is just the technical aspect of the embrace. It is just half of embrace.
A perfect embrace starts with the cabeceo, through the eyes, which also called windows of the hearts, of two persons. The man takes her right hand and invites her to the embrace. At this moment, he should show his confidence that he is the best of the floor and he could take care of her in the crowded pista and give her two wonderful minutes. The confidence is so strong that the others on the floor feel it too, so they will respect his space when he dances around.
It is when the woman feels the confidence in the man, she takes the last step towards him and allows him to embrace her. Then she completely surrenders into the embrace and waits for him to show her two blissful minutes.
"I can teach you how to dance, but I can't teach you embrace." Maestro Carlos told me once."...I am glad that you've found your own."
Shy, intimidated of dancing with one of the best, and nervous of making mistake or causing injury to her. Not until I put away those emotions and started envisioning myself as the best, did Andrea Misse tell Javier and me that the embrace was "Perfecto".
" keep this embrace. Don't lose it." Javier nodded at me.
A man does not automatically embrace the woman. Instead, he takes her hand; invites her and waits for her acceptance. The woman takes the last step to allow the man to embrace her.
Steps were/are/ will be created by dancers, mostly the leaders. If you fixate on the steps, spend much of your mind of memorizing the steps, and try to recreate these steps in your dance, then you are forever trapped in the tango labyrinth. At a certain stage of your tango journey, you would realize that you are the creator of the steps, not the slave of them.
"How to do a nice(perfect) giro?" I asked Javier after my imitation of one of his moves. "What's a giro?" He answered. Instead, he had me standing relaxed, feet together, in practice hold.
"Close your eyes" Andrea translated "now try to remember this movement."
Javier slowly drew a counter clockwise circle with my upper body. "This is the sensation. Remember that." Then he and Andrea danced to show me the body movement and energy, but not the steps...
I used to be fascinated by Javier's unique footworks (steps). I had spent hours loading his Youtube clips in Flash and watched them frame by frame, tried to break down his steps. I wanted to dance like him.
After the private lessons with him, I realized that I didn't want to dance just like him any more. I want to dance like myself. Of course, I will carry certain distinctive/signature Javier features, ones which he probably learned from his maestros: the embrace, the energy... It was what he taught me, however, freed my mind, my fixation of those fantastic steps of his.
The repertoire of tango is muy grande. But it is also very simple: natural: listen to your body, your body will tell you how to dance...
Your mind tells your body how to move, your body then tells your feet...
Think of whereabout of the fellower's foot (always on one foot), not your feet during the dance.
---Javier Rodriguez
Understand how to dance elegantly, how to dance sensually, the essence of tango, the connection between the two.
Think of the feet as paint brush, the floor as a canvas. You dance as painting on the floor with brushes.
---Maestro Carlos De Chey
Understand these, I begin to dance with more freedom.
your lead, follow your musicality, execute your figures. But most importantly listening to the woman, in the embrace, in her figures, in her embellishments, what she wants." excerpts from Lonewalk's , who by the way is a damn good dancer himself (cream of the crops by American standard), latest post about Javier Rodriguez talked about musicality.
A very interesting post, the way Javier talked about musicality in a deeper level. I will let you read about it from Issac's blog yourself.
Tango, at a higher level, is very intriguing, to say the least.
"Its not all about trying to do what you want anymore. Its letting her body and her emotions lead you..."
is no Nirvana. BsAs has average dancers, even bad dancers too. BsAs' milongas can be very crowded and hard to dance for some. BsAs has hot and humid summer days. BsAs has problems like every other city in the world...
But in BsAs, you can dance tango 16x7 (save 8 hours a day for sleep, eat, drink and go to the batroom). In BsAs you can dance with just about the world. In BsAs, you can dance with the best, if you are strived to be the best. In BsAs, you can experience something magical...
So if you are serious about knowing tango, make a trip to BsAs. Maybe you come back with disappointment, maybe you come back with depression, maybe you come back with different perspective of tango, or maybe you come back and quit...
Then one day you would say this: I('ve) dance(d) tango, I've been to BsAs...
I probably need help but you are supposed to live only once. Non? So I just bought another ticket to Buenos Aires leaving on the 22nd of February for three weeks. Great price: $782. Hotwire.com. Now I am settled.
I actually slept the whole afternoon, now it's 2:15am Tuesday morning in New York, 12:15am in Buenos Aires. I would be at El Beso right now, and going to Porteno Y Bailarin in another hour; came from Maipu444 this afternoon. Only that I am at home in my apartment, listening to Alfredo Gobbi, with the hissing sound from the radiators on the background...
My whole body is aching, especially my calves. I think I will stop blogging till I go back to BA again. There is nothing to talk about here. And I've spent way too much time on blogging.
Time to focus on things that are more pragmatic, such as making money for my next longer visit in late Feb and march, starting to learn some Spanish so that next time I can converse during the break and the beginning the song, dancing a little less and thinking tango a little more.
I need time to digest, revisit and practice what I've learned. Anyway, three months will pass by before I know it. Much to do before the next trip. As a matter of fact I feel like I never leave Buenos Aires, a city that I get to know.
1. Had my first dance in Nino Bien with Cherie. I was a bit nervous at the time but gained confidence as the night went on. Ruben y Cherie are wonderful to be around with.
2. Danced behind Javier and Andrea at P&B. Nervous of bumping into them.
3. Had a great night with L-A-F-S at P&B. It was great feeling though nothing happened.
4. Danced with Andrea Misse for the first time.
5. Watching the French woman dancing with the blind man.
6. Met with Sally. You are a wonderful woman!
7. Dinner with F&E at Cafe del los Angelitos. Talks about meaning of tango.
8. All those private with J&A.
9. Met with the fellow NY tangueros and tangueras and had a tanda or two with them.
10. Knowing that I will be back to BsAs very soon.
From Ideal, I went to Club Gricel. Nito was teaching there. NDM was there too. He is a great teacher. Learned a few things by just sitting and watching. But I was tired and sleepy.
Dancing two tandas with NDM and we decided to leave. I went to P&B by myself. Saw the waiter at P&B and he got me a decent table. P&B tonight was dead. I danced with a German and a French. Both had problem with their own axis.
By 1:00am, I was ready to leave for El Beso, crowded, which I was told by the German. I loved the crowd, more dancers, better level of dancing and most of all great energy.
Saw Javier's friend M, gave her a big kiss on the cheek. And walk down the block to El Beso.
The place was packed. A lot of hot chicas, great dancers. Saw Gustavo there, so was Issac from crossroad. They both danced like Javier, very good dancers, especially Gus.
I thought I made a mistake to get in to el beso at 1:30am. Should have come here first. I would get a lot more dances. But I was extremely tired and my whole body was stiff. I danced with someone from NY and LA, then I walked out there around 3:00am in the morning.
On the way back to the apartment, I was already planning my next visit.
It happened at Ideal, sans the dips and the open embrace.
I was continuing my tango marathon on Sunday. After a trip to the flea market at the cemetery, I went to Ideal. It was quiet then. A few old milgueros and milogueras were dancing on the floor. I was quite tired. For a moment or two, I dozed off. I was debating if I should go back and take a nap before heading to Club Gricel.
I had been sitting there for about an hour, didn't even put my shoes on. Finally I decided to leave. Then I caught the sight of this woman with short hair. She seemed to know every one, and had been getting dances.
I cabeceoed her. And we had a lovely tanda. She understood the embrace. She is from Paris (french again).
My sense of tango had come back after the tanda. Then I saw this petite pretty woman whom looked like Eva Longoria. Cabeceoed her, she responded, but another guy mistook it and walked towards her. She looked away and chatted with the woman sitting next to her but the guy was so eager to dance that he actually asked her. Oh, only if people followed the code.
He was a lousy dancer and a Pugliese tanda was playing. Saw the look on her face, eyes wide opened, thought that it was not a very happy one.
Then I saw the French woman was dancing with this guy who had no sense of direction and wore a pair of sunglasses. Why would she dance with the dude? She had got all the good ones to choose from. Her eyes were wide open. She danced with her eyes closed with the others.
Then I realized this was the blind guy whom someone had nmentioned to me. I watched her being careful with the people around, yet at the mean time tried to enjoy the dance with him. At that moment, I felt my eyes were watery. I was touched by the sight of a wonderful woman and a courageous man.
At the end of the tanda, she walked him back to his seat, which not far from mine. She walked pass me and I touched her elbow. She stopped, I told her that it was emotional to see her dancing with this man. I had tears in my eyes, and she said that it made two of us.
We danced our emotion away with a milonga tanda. After that, I had my dance with the Eva Longoria looking woman. And that was it for me at Ideal. I had witnessed something special. And that moment will always be remembered. A kiss and a wave goodbye to the French woman, I walked out of Cafeteria La Ideal.
That was not the best milonga I've been to, but definitely a special one...
Went the Barrio Chino in the morning with NDM. Had nice lunch and got ready for my planned milonga marathon.
First stop Nino Bien's Saturday martinee: Los Consagrados. Got there around 5:20pm. Saw the waitress, she recognized me and we greeted with a kiss on the cheek. I went to Ruben y Cherie's regular table. It was empty. No one was there yet. I changed my shoes and ordered a cafe con leche. This is a porteno's martinee milonga. All the regulars have their regular table.
I cabeceoed a lovely lady at the table to our left. She was there last week but we didn't dance. The floor was roomy at the time. We had a nice tanda. She was really light on her feet. No wonder she danced tanda after tanda.
The young and pretty chica came shortly after, same dress, same table, same time. I waited she settled down and cabeceoed her for her first dance. We had a lovely tanda, and the floor wasn't crowded yet.
Cherie came around 6:30, rougly the same time that she said she would be there. We had a nice Pugliese tanda. I danced with the chica again, and with two more portenos. And it was 9:00pm. Time for the next stop.
I said goodbye to Cherie y Ruben. Thank them for their good company. They are wonderful milonguera y milonguero, genuine people. It was a great pleasure to have known them. I will miss them.
Second stop: Maipu 444. Had dinner at the restaurant next door, Asador and spaghetti. Food in the stomach, I went up to Maipu 444. The place was packed, a lot of young chicas. No star tonight, but very good dancers on the floor. The host was warm, handshake and all that. But I was stuffed to the worst chair in the room: in the back between the men's and the lady's room.
No matter, I would get my dances once I got on the floor. The floor was small, a little bigger than P&B. DJ was good, great control of the flow with selection of tandas.
My first dance went to a Porteno,who is petite and just barely up to my chin. She was clearly a pre-intermedite. I had to cover a lot of her steps. Then again, it must be my lead (90% is leader fault.) She kept saying " muy lindo." during the break. I couldn't say the same about her though.
Second dance went to a LA native who is going to spend a year here.(how fortunate!) She seemed to get a lot of tandas. Other than another dutch woman, all six of my other dances were with portenos (some cute ones too). I am really getting good with this cabeceo thing.
I would have stayed to the end if it weren't for my planned mission. By 12:20pm, I was ready to hop to the next milonga: Italia Unita.
Third stop: Italia Unita. Cost of entrance: 20 peso!!! The most expensive one. The place looked very classy. The floor was nice, not crowded at all.
That also presented another problem, there wasn't enough energy on the floor. The milonga felt dead. I stayed for about twenty minutes then moved on the last stop, El beso.
El beso was crowded at 1:30 am. I kept working my cabeceo and danced with five portenos. There was this lovely blond who is petite and very cute. I cabeceoed her. She came over and i was quite taken by her beauty.
But she was very nervous. Mayb I am too handsome, :). She told me after one song:" you dance so so." I was surprised. "you're very nervous." I told her with some body language that imitates nervousness. She relaxed, then we had two very nice song. At the end of the tanda, she smiled (beautiful teeth):"muy lindo."
I danced with two more portenos and a dutch. And it was the la Cumparita. It was only 4:00am in the morning. Sharing a cab back to the apartment with the dutch, she talked about not getting the dances at Maipu444. I was surprised: "Maybe it is your cabeceo." I told her. (another subject for another time.)
The night was still young and I haven't danced for 12 hours yet. Outside, the street was still very busy. Young people were walking ups and downs. Trendy clubs still got long lines outside. Cafes and pizzerias were still opened with many customers.
I love this town, where you can tango from dawn to dust.
Had a nice buffet dinner with NDM with a bottle of wine, cost only $20 each. I think I will go back again before I leave.
Went to Canning after. It was supposed to be the milonga for Friday night, but what a f@#$^!g nightmare. The level of dance was so bad while we got there. I just sat there most of the time and made snide remarks with NDM.
We went on to the floor and danced one tanda. During one song I was bumped four fucking times. It felt like back in Monday's DM luna milonga. You got people dressed in jeans with holes and sneakers. Most of the women didn't even know what cabeceo is. I looked and looked, no response (not even a signal of "NO"). I was frustrated.
Comparing to Nino Bien, the floor craft on this Friday was terrible. You got f@#$^!g old men who got no sense of direction, flinging the women with 4 inch heel around as a weapon and danced to every foot of free space possibly found. There was no flow of the floor. It reminds me NY, with actually some of the milongas in NY have better flow that one of Canning this night.
Saw Gustavo with his friends and Issac from Crossroad, it was interesting to see how they danced since we all studied with Javier.
Every single girl whom I danced with got some sort of flaws. Most of them don't have their own axis or wobbly, stiff embrace with the gringas. I danced with one Porteno. She told me she just danced in the milonga, and never took any lessons. No wonder she felt weird.
I was bit disgusted. We spent thousands of dollars to improve our dance. And you just come to milonga and dance. What the...!
Even my favorite Italian girl was felt rushing the steps. But she's got a good embrace. Plus I like her a lot. Other than that, the night was almost disastrous.
Sat with Javier's friend M a bit, and went over to Italian girl's table and we exchanged e-mail addresses and names. And hopefully will meet at the milongas some where.
I was feeling sore heels. I hadn't felt the wears on my heel for a long time. I know it was from dancing with these women whom don't f%$#@!g know how to embrace a man, don't f%$#@!g know how to stay on their axis, and don't f%$#@!g take any lessons.
There you go, Women don't get to be the only ones who b%^&*.
Hopefully Maipu 444 is going to be as good as last week.
Andrea was sorting out her Comme IL Faut when I walking in. Twenty pairs of them. Today was my lucky day. She was going to break in a new pair of CIF with me.
We talked a while first. I asked technical questions and principal questions. Javier answered them. There were so much information but so little time.
Then I danced with Andrea. I was surprised that the music Javier put on was Pugliese. I didn't know that I was ready for Pugliese. I always felt timid with Pugliese.
Stop. Javier was serious. "I care very much on the aesthetic presentation of the feet in the dance." Andrea translated "Never embellish with the outside edge of the foot." Javier showed me how to lapiz works. Then we worked on parada, and musicality. And the freedom the man has to lead.
I was taking them in and made notes and digest. Now I understand why Javier was not keen on me taking video. It takes away the process of thinking. What I learned these few days had gone into me, I am a better dancer mentally.
I am so grateful to both of them of showing me essence of the dance. Had me a taste of what it was like to have a perfect dance.
I danced with Andrea a whole song of Pugliese. Javier approved with his eyes and a little nod, Andrea said it was muy lindo. Although, few moment I tipped over her and put pressure on her heel. It was my bad habit from my beginner's day.
On the way down, Andrea told me that she was glad that we had done so much in five days. I told her that I looked forward to seeing them again soon.
With a kiss goodbye, I had completed my five memorable hours private with two of the best teachers in the world. They had transformed me and educated me. That was the purpose of coming here.
One week has passed. I came back to where I started my first milonga-Nino Bien. Had a wonderful and light hearted lesson with Javier and Andrea, I went straight to El Beso. It is small place but jam packed.
I danced a tanda with a girl whom I danced the other night at P&B and E (whom I thought was getting worse following.). After that I took off and called novia de maestro and met up at Nino Bien.
Got there early, saw the fellow New Yorkers again. Had a decent table (don't bother to call for reservation. Unless you are a regular, reservation doesn't mean squat) and ordered some vino and chatted a little. She doesn't go out much to the milongas. Even though she's been here close to a year, she found my milonga tales were very interesting.
After danced with her, I started to cabeceo around. One regular (yes, one week here I am getting my regular cabeceo.)responded and we had very nice half tanda when the floor was clear.
Next one went to the beautiful Italian girl whom I danced with Tuesday night. NDM said that she closed her eyes and smiling during the whole tanda of Calo. I felt great in the perfect embrace with her. My energy was high. The floor was packed then. Had her in my embrace, breathing and feeling the chest expanding together was blissful.
Later I had a second tanda, a D'Arienzo with her. She is good at the music as well, recognized different orchestra. I guess she is as much into tango as I did(can tell through the conversation the way that we talked about music).
During our tanda, a filming crew was here. The camera was following us for a long minute or two. I was slightly distracted and led her too close to the front table (I was using every single available square foot). Her heel caught the woman whom was sitting there next to the floor in the feet. (One advice, ladies, if you don't intend to get a lot dances, for any reason, including your ability to dance. Don't sit at the front row close to the floor. Front row is for dancers whom actively cabeceo for dance, not spectators to sit and watch.)
That happened at the last song of the tanda, we danced just about 15 feet during the whole song. I apologized to her. It was my first accident in one week. I felt embarrassed, more so because the camera was there to catch the accident.
Later towards the end of the milonga, I looked over at her. We both wanted to dance the third one, but were inhibited because of the codigo. She said she would be at canning Friday night. So I would probably see her again. And maybe get her e-mail address this time
Overall, the energy of the dance was not as good as last week. But I was having a fantastic time. Danced with a Swedish, a fellow NY tango dj/organizer, a Brit, a few others and it was close to 3:30am in the morning. My last one went to this chica from Hong Kong, who doesn't look like a Chinese at all. I had no idea. What an coincident!
It is interesting how tango brings people together from different places in the world.
Later, she invited me to share a cab with her. We exchanged e-mails and promised to meet again before I leave for NY.
It was great night all in all. Great class with great milonga. I was getting comfortable to dance to what I learned in the class. Especially the embrace part, it works.
I got home feeling so tired, didn't even have the energy to write anything. Not until now, 1:00pm in the afternoon that I have recovered from the unforgettable night of dancing at Nino Bien. My favourite along with Porteno y Bailarin.
I am more comfortable with Andrea and Javier. I even loosed the second button of my shirt. And Javier noticed that and said: "muy Argentino."
Danced a full song with Andrea without being stopped by Javier. I viewed it as a big improvement from the first day, when I was stopped just about one minute into the dance.
We continued fine tuned the embrace, walk and energy flow. Then Javier explained the energy of a giro that I did.
" I saw you did this." He said, Andrea translated. My favorite Javier move.
"Yes, I learned that from video." I said and
"I know." Javier winked. "I recognized it." "But it is a copy."
So he explained it how the energy works and I understood it, but couldn't do it right away. I need time to have it become part of me before I have the confidence to do it.
Javier and Andrea danced one song together to show me how it was done. I felt that I was so privileged to see the performance right in front of me.
The door bell rang. And it was another Javier's student from Taiwan. Gustavo! I recognized him from the photos on the web. I know he is very good. Some introduction after, we resumed the lesson.
I danced with Andrea one more song. Unconsciously, I used one of the moves that Javier just did. After the dance, Andrea chuckled and told Javier. Javier was laughing:" Mafia Chino."
"Mafia numbero Uno." he pointed to Gus "y Mafia numbero Dos." He pointed at me.
"What can I do," I joked " I have to steal from the rich man."
He chuckled after andrea translated. That has concluded my fourth private with them.
Then I watched Gus led Javier for one song. I recognized all the signature Javier moves and energy in his dance. I was laughing and admiring. Yet I don't want to dance just like Javier. I want to apply what he taught me and dance like me.
On the way down from the apartment, Javier told me when I go back, I should start following. Then you would understand how the mujer feels, he said.
Sally and I decided to have a blogger union at Cafeteria La Ideal's afternoon milonga. Got there around 5;00pm, it was quiet. Sally walked in a few minutes after. We were so happy to finally meet.
Ideal was quiet at that hour, only one of two couple dancing on the floor. We chatted a bit until a Pugliese was played and a Sally's regular cabeceoed her. Sally danced like some one who has been dancing for a few years instead of just one year.
She has very precise steps and cute little embellishment. It was a pleasant treat to watch her dancing with the milonguero.
We had a nice tanda of tango and vals. She looked so good that a guy kept his eyes on her all time while we were dancing. But he was one of those bad dancers. Sally was way out of his league.
Time flied when you had a great time. It was close to 6:30 and I had to take off for private. It was wonderful to meet an amazing woman like sally in the real world. It makes cyber world a little more humane.
Woke up this morning having a little headache. Looked at the empty champagne bottle than I understood why. The bright side was that I had a sound sleep. Now L-A-F-S is gone, I can concentrate on tango again.
Planning to meet a respected blogger later at la Ideal (yes, going back to that place), then 7:00pm private, after straight to El Beso, then Nino Bien around 1:00am. With full schedule ahead, I had my coffee and media luna and went out the Bulnes to get some cash and changed $100 bill at Carrefour by getting another of fine champagne (13 peso, 4 dollar). Came back and picked up my laundry.
The elevator at this building is strange. The apartment that I rent is on the 1st floor. The button hasn't been working right since I came in. Today, I just couldn't get it working at all. I went up to second floor, no problem, press the 1st floor. The elevator gave a click sound, then nothing.
Didn't want to stepping into the darkness of the second floor and walk down to my floor. I pressed 0 to get down to ground floor. Then press 1 again, click, click, and beep beep beep. Fuck, I ran out of patience. Still don't want to use the fire escape stairs. (it is a horrible experience, trying to the find the light switch in pitch black.) I pressed 3, smoothly the elevator carried me to the third floor.
Guess what, no luck again. back the ground floor, one more try I said to myself, press 1 again. Yes, it finally was moving...
On the way to Javier's place, I tried to call my NYTFs and plan for the milonga later. The call got cut off and gave out a bunch of Spanish. I thought that my minutes was used up. So freaked out, I asked the taxi driver to pick up add-on phone card for me. He was kind enough to jump out of car at a mobile store and did it for me.
I was ten minutes late for the class. Javier and Andrea were having a mate when I walked in. And they offered me to try it. It tasted like herbal tea, very interesting, and I am sure, organic.
This class is about fine tone the dance. I still had the problem sometime right leg crooked the left. Javier told me to think of just the standing leg and push with the whole feet, not bending the knee.
And he discussed a lot of breathing, energy and the little things that make or break the energy and the feeling for the woman in the dance. He led me a few times and had me feel the different lead (good one, and the bad one I did). I tried to absorb what he said. But there was too much information. I had to take it all in and digest slowly when I get back to new york.
The biggest gain of these privates is that he and Andrea had taught me what is the essence of the dance. It will take many years for me to be able to dance like that. But it is great to know that I am walking in the right path. I am definitely coming back for in March for some more lessons. They stay till late March before go on tour again.
Later Javier told me to just dance with Andrea. He asked me if I like the music. I told me I preferred to dance to D'Arienzo. Then D'Arienzo it was. During the dance I felt I was at times rushing Andrea, and lack of control.
I don't believe in love at the first sight. But I did have a great time and a lot of good laughs with some one whom I just met here. I called her Like at the first sight, L-A-F-S.
Anyway, got to P&B early to get a seat at the table. Just had a perfect dance with Andrea, was still savoring it and taking in what was learned from the class. So dancing with average dancers was very unfulfilled.
P&B draws good crowd tonight, El Falco, Tete, Luna, Mariela from NY (just arrived this morning.)and some less known names. Of course Alberto Podesta is performing tonight. Sat with the Tango Zen guy from DC, danced with two Germans, one Dutch, one Italian, one special friend from the States. I spoke a little German to the Germans, and Italian to the Italians, but every one seemed to be in the Spanish mind. It took them a while to realize that I was speaking their native language.
The performance must be one of the memorable moments in this trip. I shot a lot of videos of the performance. And I stayed late till 4:00am dancing with my new L-A-F-S. I am loving this town....
Went nuts with the shoe shopping. Found the shoes Javier wore and recommended at Neotango. Spent one hour there and finally picked up three. Then went to El Arranque for the milonga martinee. Was too tired and didn't even dance. Had lunch at 6:00pm at a cafe at the corner of Callao.
Walked to Javier's apartment 10 to 7pm. Andrea wasn't there yet. Tried on the new shoes, they felt good. Andrea came in 10 minutes later and thought I was wearing Javier's shoes.
More comfortable now, I started to gain confidence in my dance. Javier and Andrea communicated to each other after we danced half song. She thought that I was opening my left side a bit, she felt a bit pulled off balance. I knew that the cause of it must be the last couple of weeks that I was trying the V shape embrace.
We spent a good amount of time trying to fix the little nuances, such when to collect the feet for me, (especial when lead the woman into the cross from ocho cortado), how the think of the right arm embrace as having two needles hanging from both side and try to maintain that way, how my left hand should be by my body not to push the woman the arm, and walk straight line. I corrected them little by little until Andrea felt perfect.
Then she had a little request. I needed to show her the music. It took a few minutes to understand that. The man interpreted the music like a conductor. The man shows the woman how he wants this music to be danced. The woman shouldn't have to guess the music. I don't know if this sits well with North American women. But this is how I am taught.
In the last dance with Andrea, a Di Sarli, I danced the whole song with her. After that, Andrea told me it felt perfect and Javier gave me a thump up and gave his seat to me to sit down.
I was tired physically (not just from the class but from all these late night dancing.), but I was emotionally high. Went to the apartment to fix some dinner and headed out to Porteno y Bailarin. Alberto Podesta is performing tonight.
Club Gricel is on La Rioja in san Critobal, a bit far from where I live. Took the last subway of the day round 10pm, D line to Catedral and changed to E and got off at Urquiza, walked up two blocks to the left. And here it was Club Gricel.
It was F's last night in town. Saw her right away on the floor when I walked in. It was crowded then. The host greeted me with a kiss on the cheek. That made me feel comfortable already. Then she had me waited to be sit it. Since I am a tourist,solo and it was crowded already at the time, I was assigned the worst seat, which was also taken.
I sat down and ordered agua con gas. Before long, two gentlemen came off the floor and told me that they sat there. The host made a mistaken and the seat was taken. Didn't know what to do, I got up and walked back to the front and tried to talk with the host.
Then Ruben and Cherie saw me and signaled me to sit with them. They were with their guest tonight. I danced with F a beautiful Pugliese tanda. We spent most of the time in each other's embrace, only a few steps here and there when space was available. I would miss dancing with her.
I walked around just like rest to practice cabaceo. And this woman stopped me. Wanna dance, she asked with heavy accent. A portena. Ok, why not. How bad she could be? Well, to say the least, she felt different. In the break, we had a little conversation. It turned out she had been to NY before as a.... Tango teacher! And it seemed that she knows a lot of people: my maestro, lexa, Daniel from dancetango.com. She asked me to say hello to them. I told her that I would carry her hellos with me home.
I didn't know if it was normal in the milonga. She stopped in front of a table where some of her acquaintances sat, and said to them "Chino, bailer tango." Her friends nodded and said "Bueno"
I didn't have a very good night in terms of dancing. The floor was very crowded, and I got bumped once and kicked twice. One guy blocked me during a Pugliese tanda. And I left one of my dressing socks at the apartment. So I was in my white button socks. I didn't want to look stupid in front of these people. So I danced in really small steps and tried not to show what was under of the hem of the pants.
But I had a great time socializing... I would have good dancing another night and anothe milonga. I came back happy, happy to be in Buenos Aires...
Late for my private with J&A. I felt so bad. First class and I was 15 minutes late. Rang the bell of Javier's Apartment. Andrea came down to get me. She recognized me from last night at Porteno y Bailarin. We chitchat a little until Javier came out.
I think I will keep the details. But mainly we worked on the embrace, Javier explained how the man embraces the woman so the woman is over the man's chest. He had me adjusted my right hand higher, and left hand palm facing the face. My walk is too academic, not natural, use the whole feet but not bending the knees. So the woman feels less disturbed and smoother.
Tango is danced in a block, straight lines. If I want to be circular, there is thing called pivot. Then Attitudes: we spent more time on the attitudes than the technique. Dance like a Argentine, be confident, but not cocky nor arrogant.
In the begiining, Andrea felt that I was nervous, timid and hesitated. She told Javier. I explained:"I am dancing with the best dancer. I get nervous." Javier said seriously :"then bring your own partner." Because any withdrawn feeling conveys to the woman and makes her feel insecure. From the moment that I invite the lady for a dance. I have to have the confidence so it conveys to her and the people around on the floor.
I took notes. Listened, and corrected the technical flaws. Time flied before an hour was up. Then Javier told me to dance one song with Andrea and dance the way that I normally do with the things that he taught in mind.
After the dance Andrea told Javier: "Muy potencial!" She and Javier approved. Later Javier showed me his shoes and told me to get a softer, lower and bigger heel shoes. It will transform your dance. Andrea translated.
We scheduled the next four days and Javier walked me down the lift.
Out on the street, I was so glad that I had made the right decision to come to BsAs and take privates with them. It is eyeopening experience.
Went to San Telmo earlier and had dinner with my NYTF at Des Nivel-855 Defensa. Great steak-lomo, but seriously I vowed that it was the last piece of beef for the week.
Then I went to Porteno y Bailarin to meet maestro's novia. I haven't seen her for closed to a year. She is living down here right now and quite settled in. I took a class with her and the teacher is a friend of maestro. Didn't learn anything new from the class and got frustrated with the steps taught at the end of the milonga and had to dance with grandmas (local) whom had no clues. I disliked group class.
We had a table and ordered a bottle of wine. Then crowd started coming in. And guessed what, a group of New Yorker came in. Greetings and introduction. Later more turistas came in. The whole place turned into a turista's milonga. For the many milongueros, they were having a fantastic time, all these younger and much younger women who were eagerly accepting their cabeceos.
I had my share of dances with women from all over the world but Argentines. I guessed it was sunday night. The locals went to bed early for Monday at work.
I wasn't in the best mood. The floor was small and sticky. But it was interesting to see how people dance in the space. It is nonetheless a learning experience.
Around 12:30, a bunch people walked in. Guess what, the whole Misse gang were there. Later, Javier arrived too. It was the brother's birthday.
Gabriel had a birthday dance with the sisters. Then Javier and Andrea were dancing on the floor. I danced a song right behind them. I was a bit nervous in the beginning, didn't want to get in their way and embarrassed myself. Then I gained back my confidence.
I left around 2:300pm.On the way back to the apartment, I was planning for Monday's schedule.
Went to bed 6:00 am in the morning, but woke up just before 12:00pm. Hungary! Went out to Boulnes y Santa Fe and hoped to give a sim card and exchange the dollars that I have. The sim card costs: $40 pesos, and phone card $20 pesos. No bad, called everyone that I should have called and went to Abasto Shopping center's casa de cambio.
Finally, I had to money for my privates with J&A changed into Pesos, rate 1 to 3.05, whatever, better than the airport rate. Now I understood why the cambios inside of airport use young and cute chicas as cashiers. So the stupid gringos can't say no to the outrage rate. Great business practice.
Anyway, I realized that ATM machines does not forever spit out pesos. I have to start planning my expenses. Use the subway more often, and start going to the supermarket for daily necessities.
There is a Carrefour Express right on Santa Fe and Boulnes by the subway stop of D line Boulnes. I went there to use my 100 pesos. Bought some beers, chips, sodas, milk, eggs, veggi, instant noodles (more expensive than frozen pastas.), pastas, tea bags and fruits. To reward myself for saving some money, I bought a nice bottle of champagne... :)
Went home and made lunch, have some more parrilla left over from Friday night. Take a nap, and head down to San Telmo later meeting my NYTFs for earlier dinner at this parrilla restaurant. Yes mas Parrilla...
F has been to BsAs 18 times over the past twelve years. She is such a charming lady, friends with every one. From the waitresses at the milongas to the waiters at Cafe del Los Angelitos, every one loves her.
The restaurant is very elegant. We ordered nice bottle of Malbec, and juicy steaks (can't help it.) and fruitcieta con creama (strawberry with whip cream), the most delicious desert that I've had for a long time. During the two hours dinner we conversed, talked about tango, the meaning of it, the way each of us feel about it. Both of F and E have been there many times. They had these tango tales that sometimes made my eyes wet.
By 1:00am, we finally asked for the bill. Good food, nice service and damn good price. Salad, bottle of nice wine ($38 peso), good steak, and desert with coffee came out to be $50 peso per person.
Then we decided to go to Maipu 444. Got there around 1:30pm. And the floor was not so crowded. And damn, the level of dancing is really high here. Seeing all these fabulous dancers dancing was a treat for me. It sets the standard of "bien" dancing for me. I realized the stuffs that I need to work on to be able to dance like them, but I also gained confidence that soon I can excel.
I danced with F first. She is such a fantastic dancers. Then cabeceo a polish girl for half tanda. A local argentine woman who was probably a bit under level. Then another pretty looking young polish girl who was unsure in the beginning.
She is over 6 feet tall, which i guess it is normal height for a polish. I guessed she had bad experience with some one shorter before. She told me in the break that she was not sure about me being 5.8' dancing with a 6.1'. Clearly her doubt was gone soon when we started. She told me that she has been here for month and half and will stay for another two month and half. I told her how jealous I was.
Then I cabeceoed this woman who danced with Oscar Casas, and the best (or at least the best that were left at the time we arrived) in the milonga. She evaded my cabeceo earlier. But this time she nodded and accepted.
First thing she asked was what lingo that I speak in spanish. " Un poco Espanol, mas ingles." She too. It turned out that she is an Aussie. I don't know why, but I was not impressed with her embrace. Too stiff. After dancing with over thirty woman in three days, I realized that a good Argentine follower has this wonderful disassociation that makes dancing in close embrace a blissful experience.
Most of gringas that I danced with just didn't have that smooth hip movement. It is heavenly the way a good dancer move her hip. Then when I danced with some one whom feels like a block, regardless her level, the feeling was completely different.
How do I coup with the reality when I go back to NY. The unpleasant thought went through my mind and brought a bit chill in this summer night of BsAs.
After the CD shopping spree, I had an hour sieta before heading out to Humberto 1 1462 's Los Consagrados milonga, which is the same place for Nino Bien on Thursday night. Went to Carrefour before and picked up some stuffs. I guess I will start conserving my money. Three days, 2400 peso, that's a alarming spending trend.
Anyway, back to the happy thoughts: tango and milongas. Got to the milonga around 7:00, and what a contrast from Thursday night. I guessed our table were the only turistas. Heh, wait a minute, wasn't that woman sitting there from NY? I remembered dancing with her in Maestro's milonga. Ha, the ubiquitous New Yorkers.
First dance went to a porteno who hosts tango dancers, she was all right. And she kept telling me my dancing is bien. We stopped at a table where old milongueros were sitting. She went over and exchanged besos with a 70 year old man. The man looked at me and said a bunch of things to her, the only word that I could understand was "bien".
Next dances went to my two New NYTFs. They were about to leave for their dinners reservation at 8:30. I was joking with them, you guys were still on NY schedule, dinner by eight. And I just finished my lunch around 6:00.
Then another tanda with a porteno, with help of Ruben. He told the woman that me "bien". She is all right too. But I guessed ever since I had danced with Cherie at Nino Bien. My standard of "bien" dancing of woman has gone up a couple of notches.
A milonga with F. By then I was recognized by the women. Next cabeceo was accepted by a young and pretty woman sitting behind me. I had my eyes on her when I first walked in. Saw her dancing on the floor, pretty good posture and footwork.
She smells wonderful. For a moment I thought she was French, because she said "pardon" when she missed the lead. At the break, she told me that she is local, 100% Argentine, from La Plata, which is 75 kilos from the city. And she learned to speak different languages from the milongas.
We had a lovely time, her breathing was sweet and soft. When I walked her back to the table, she told me to ask her to dance again later. " Woman can't ask man, so you have to ask me again." I laughed " Sure, my pleasure. Will do."
Then it was the raffle time. And the young woman won the Champagne. Young, pretty, good dancer, on top of them, a good luck charm too.
I went on dancing with E, and Cherie. Then I rested for a tanda. When the music started again, I felt a little tap on the shoulder. Turned around, it was the young woman. She was asking me for the tanda. Wow. Wasn't it unusual? She was getting dancing from all the good milogueros.
Off we went on to the floor again. This time, she was felt a little less grounded. Perhaps it was the Champagne that she won and had consumed. I held her tighter and slowed down the steps a bit more. It was a good tanda nonetheless.
It was closed to 10:30. People started to leave. Young woman was ready to leave too. I hugged her and a kiss to the cheek. Thank her. And we said to say each other again in the milongas.
F, E and I decided to go and have dinner before going to another milonga, maybe El Beso or Maipu 444. It was only 10:30, the night was still young....
Woke up earlier this morning, decided to do some CD shopping. Based on my research, most of the music stores are on Ave. Corrientes, but there is one on Callao. According to the website, the store on Callao is accessible from both D and B line. So I took the D line to Callao.
Walking on Callao I found this little music store called Cool Music on Callao 687. There are some compilation CDs that look like bootleg. But the price is great. 12 pesos each. The guy was friendly (sure, a good sale man). So I bought 11 of those and a few Tango Argentino and Reliquias. Total cds bought from this place: 18, cost: $266 peso.
Had some nice media luna and Cafe Con leche. I was happy because I love tango music like tangueras love Comme Il Faut.
Walked on down Callao, I found another one called El Mundo de la Musica on Callao 453 and they are selling the some compilation for only 10 pesos. Better selections on Tango Argentino and Reliquias. Me, little kid into a candid store, hands were full of cds. They had to charge my credit three time because there was limit on the maximum amount on each authorization. I am sure that I am the biggest customer of the day. Walked out the store half an hour later with 34 cds and three credit card bill total: $657 peso.
Now I am on my CD shopping spree. Finally got to Ave Corrientes, went into El Atril on Corrientes 1743, which is right off from the B line Uruguay stop. They had the same problem: had to break my order into two smaller charges. At El Atril, I bought 15 CDs, cost: $337 peso. But I still couldn't find any of the Esteban Morgado CDs.
I was about done with my shopping. Walked out the store, and heard some nice tango music, looked around and found MagicMusica right across the street at Corrientes 1644. Walked in, and found that this store has the best price of all, 2 Pesos less than other stores on the same ones that I bought. I regretted to be an impulsive shopper earlier. Could have save some cheddars.
Incidentally she was playing the Milongueros by Esteban Morgado. I selected nine more CDs from this store and spent another $218 pesos.
That was it. No more shopping for me... at least for the day. I thought about taking a cab back to the apartment. Nah, Subway is cheaper, much cheaper.
Got back about half an hour later. 1500 pesos poorer and 72 CDs richer, I put on the Milongueros CD and rewarded myself for being such a good shopper with a left over Big Mac and a glass of Malbec.
Then a nap before heading to Los Consagrados to sit with Ruben y Cherie and their amigos y amigas. It is supposed to be a portenos' milonga. Maybe to Italia Unita later. It is going to be a long night of milongas.
Went to Conf. La Ideal this afternoon. On the way, picked up another pair of Non "gringo" looking shoes at Flabella. The place looks like a small warehouse, where boxes of shoes are stacking up six feet tall and takes up half of the tiny store space.
The owner is a funny guy, but good sales man. He saw me holding a tango magazine looking at the showcase, greeted me at the door and half dragged me into the store. He speaks English and helped me find a pair in no time. He hold me face with his hands and kissed me on the forehead. Gee, only my friends do that. The price of the shoes is very reasonable. Mine costs only $169 pesos. And I wanted to pick up another pair. He couldn't find my size but told me to come back on Tuesday. I left the store happy and walked to the Conf. la Ideal,which is only a block down.
I was wearing blue jeans and green t-shirt with a black sweater on top, pretty stand out in the crowd. Most of the people are senior milongueros y milongueras, with four or five turistas but dressed in skirts and pants. I felt a bit under dressed.
Put on my new shoes and tried them on the floor. Wow, the floor is way too slippery, those marble tiles. TG, I was prepared and had my old suede bottom shoes in my bag. I looked around and didn't find any one in particular that I would practice my newly obtained cabeceo skill on. So I sat and observed the floor.
Saw my fellow New Yorkers. Tried to cabeceo her for a dance to warm up, didn't get much response. She was sitting too far, or maybe didn't want to dance with me. Anyway, I focused my attention to the floor.
You know what, the level of dances were mixed at this afternoon milonga. There are not so good and bad Argentine dancers. Some of the old men were leading with their hands. Let's get this idea out of the way: not every old milongueros is a good dancer.
My first and successful cabeceo went to a tall blonde woman. When I walked on the floor, I felt a few eyes were on back. " Look at this guy, wears jeans and his green t-shirt untucked under his sweater. " But soon as I started dancing, I caught the surprised looks on the faces of the milongueros who were sitting aside.
The woman was good dancer and turned out she was from Norway! We had a nice tanda and I walked her back to her seat. ( Yes, I am learning.) Then I was about leave for my 7:00pm class. I put back my sneakers and went to my NY tangueras' table to say goodbye. She wanted me to stay for another five minutes. The vals was playing and I asked her for a tanda. Again, I felt that people were watching as we danced around... I felt a bit out of place in the jeans and sweater with t-shirt untucked under, and dancing in sneakers. I guess my dance skill and posture had saved some grace for my fellow turista tangueros.
I went to Jorge Firpo's milonga con transpie class after. He is a fun guy and referred me as "chico from Nuevo York." Reason: I didn't dance to the tiempo. But he helped me to get the feel of transpie. And guessed whom I ran into in the class, the guy who maintains the www.newyorktango.com. What's up with all these New Yorkers? They are all here!
The class was a little unbalanced: a couple of hot and good fellowers but a bunch of not so good leaders (myself included). I didn't have a chance to dance with any of those gorgeous women, but I left with better understanding of milonga traspie. And the cost of the class: 15 pesos, totally worth it.
Went down the block to Maipu 444, which is a small milonga. Got there around 9:30pm and only twenty dancers were there at the time. Most of them are seniors. I cabeceoed and danced with a new acquaintance from last night at Nino Bien and left half hour later to have my dinner downstairs.
I missed the last subway back to the apartment so I had to catch a cab again. I did a little math. It is true that cab is inexpensive here, average 10-15 peso a ride. But taking multiple rides a day can quickly add the cost up to 60 pesos. I should take advantage of the public transportation more.
Got back to the apartment just before mid night and didn't want to go out again to the milongas. Instead, I went to check out the bars and clubs in the neighborhood. I went to Niceto, which is similar to the east village area in NY. Clubs and bars are right next to each other. I didn't get in to the club. A bit unease amidst the 18-20 year old crowd, though the girls are hot, hot, hot...
Went to a bar instead and ordered a mojito. Cabeceo in the dark to a few women, no one took the bait. So I left soon after, and caught a cab home. Then I realized how close it is from my apartment and the guy whom drove me over had taken me for a ride. He circled around a bit and turned the 5 peso ride into a 7 peso one. Damn... hated to be taken advantage of. Necesito hable mejor espanol a la proxima.
How much parilla can I have? Apparently not as much as i thought I could. This restaurant is right next to Maipu 444. This costs only 28 pesos. The drinks and flan cost another 18 pesos. The whole dinner with leftover that will last me another three meals costs: 50 pesos(with tips), about $16 us. I will be on diet for the next three days...
Woke up at 9:00am and had some fruits then went back to bed again. By the time I got up again, it was 2:00pm. Hungary! Didn't feel like microwave the Big Mac I bought last night, I decided to go out pronto!
I can't remember where all the money went. But now I am down 480 peso in one day, really need to have my dollar exchanged to pesos. I didn't want to go to a exchange office, their rate is worst than loan shark's. I remembered seeing a HSBC on Santa Fe by Bulines station.
Found it, walked in and it was ten minutes to three. Spoke with the guy at service counter, from my little Spanish I understood that minimum is 300 us and requirement is showing your passport. Fine. No problem.
Sorry, come back at three. No one is here. Or so that why I thought the guy told me. Ok. I haven't eaten anything since 4:00am this morning. I will be back after 3:00pm.
Sat down at a cafe on Santa Fe. Waiter came over and gave me the menu. The only thing I recognized was 1/2 pollo. I didn't want to have chicken. So I pointed at the second choice from the top. Waiter looked at me and nodded, good choice. Yeh, let's have some whatever that is.
Sat there checking out the beautiful young women and girls walking by. And where is my cafe co leche? I was dying for some caffeine. Finally, twenty minutes after my lunch/breakfast was served. Simmered in the sauces was some potatoes(that I recognized) and strips? chicken?
Ha, not until I tasted it I found out that I ordered the fish. I love fish! Pleasant surprise. Ten minutes after I finished and went back to HSBC.
The guy went to the back so I waited for him in the front. Then the security guard came over and told me something, which I understood as that I should go to cambio if I want to exchange more than $300 us. The bank has maximum limit of $300 us. I was bewildered. But the guy was in uniform and spoke with authority. So I left and went to citibank.
Nope, it was closed by 3:30. No choice, I went to hsbc. $300= 900 peso, which is better than having just 60 peso in my pocket. The guard was gone. A lady came over and finally explained to me in English. The bank closes transaction at 3:00pm (I was there 10 minutes to 3pm). And minimum $300 dollar for the amount of exchange and need passport. And the bank closes during the weekend. My chance will be on Monday.
Finally, I understood what was going on. I have my ATM card, so I went to use it at the machine. OK, maximum amount showed on the screen was 700 peso. I press the 600 one. Nope, select lower amount. 400 peso, sorry, lower amount please. 300 peso, waited, no message, and the machined spat out 5 10 peso bill, 1 50 and 2 100 peso bills. What the ...?
How the hell am I going to have the hundred break? Every one hates large bill here. I am going to have some evil eyes when I present the 100 peso bill. Anyway, as Cherie told me last night, the ATM doesn't want to give you money.
Now I can appreciate being home for the convenience of banking. Here even you have the money, you can't get it out. Then again, I can't judge based on this experience. After all I am just a turista here...
To ease my frustration and a few hundred peso richer, I am going to Cafeterial Ideal's martinee milonga. Then a Jorge Firpo's milonga traspie class. More later...
First thing I have to say is:"WoW!". Now I understand why people keep coming back here. The energy on the floor was unbelievable, even though it was a mixed touristy night and seriously, half of the new york tangueros and tangueras are down here. I have met people I've seen at NYC milongas but never said hi and danced together. And we were sitting the same table with Ruben y Cherie: the wonderful host tonight.
I had great time dancing the first time in Buenos Aires' milonga. I believed that I did very well from the dances that I had. I was observing, learning, dancing with new friends, picking out tourists from their dancing styles (being a snob and a tourist myself) and having the time of my life. I stayed till the last hour.
The new shoes that I got from Suipacha 256, plain and simple suede black ones, were extremely comfortable and very not "gringo" looking. I was so glad that I left my two tone (B&W) Darcos at home.
For Caroline, I had danced the whole Taturi tanda including: Una emocion y Oigo Tu Voz.
For TB, I had danced half of Di Sarli.
For Partner, say puppies:
For every one else, I would like to share a moment of Nino Bien:
My legs are cramping... What a day and it is just the beginning of the night.
I arrived on time. Got to the apartment around 10:40am, plenty of time left after the paper work and inventory checks. Took a shower and headed out to do some shoe shopping. ( I only wear my sneak to BA.)
First stop to Fattomano, at Guatamala 4464, couldn't find the place. Then took a taxi to Suipacha. Went into Suipacha 256 first, wasn't very impressed by the stock. And went to the Darcos next door. They were busy. A few women were there picking up a couple of pairs. And being the only man in the store I felt that I was ignored.
Didn't find anything that I like, the went over to Flabella, which was closed for lunch. And the stock in the showcase were a bit plain. So I wandered back to Suipacha 256 again. The sales helped me to find a very comfy pair and it costed 220 peso. They didn't want to accept credit card so I had to pay with cash.
Ok, job was done. I felt a bit hungary, and it was around 1:30pm. Took the subway back to my apartment and got some fruit, water and had a media luna con Jamon with a coke light at a pizzeria on Santa Fe, cost 13 peson.
Picked up some fruits at the local store. I didn't understand what the guy said (i have difficulty with numbers in Spanish.) and gave him 12 pesos for a pear, two apples, two oranges and some bananas and left. The guy ran after me and gave me back 5 pesos for change. Nice people!
Came back to the apartment and did some ironing. All of sudden the electricity went out. And the phone was not working. I forgot to unlock my cell phone and couldn't use a sim card. So I had to run out of the aparment and called the owner from a pay phone for help.
I didn't wait long, because Samantha y Andre was teaching arond 5:30pm at salon canning.Caught a cab and told the drive "salon canning". He looked at me bewilder. " Tango, salon canning. Salabrini Ortiz" I repeated, Who doesn't know Salon Canning, right?
No, not this old man. Even the radio he was listening had kept mentioning the word:"Tango", he had absolutely no idea of where Salon Canning is. I used my broken Spanish and explained once again the address: " Salabrini Ortiz uno, tres, tres, uno." Finally he understood, smiled and corrected me: " Ortiz mil. tres, tres, uno." OK, senor! Thank you for the Spanish crash course.
The door to Salon Canning was so unnoticeable. Tiny little door that could be mis recognized as door to an apartment. Got there around 5:40 and it was quite. Only a little chica and another guy was there. What happened?
With my un poco Spanish, I asked the guy:" clases". " Si, Si" the guy nodded. I sat down and looked around and finally recognized that little petite chica is Samantha Dispari. Half an hour later, Andres arrived with two chicas and one chico followed. They seemed to know each other, besos to each other.
I stand there, didn't know what to do. They all got partners. Andres encouraged me to join in. From my very limite Spanish I understood that we would rotate. They showed a step which was something I had seen on Youtube and wanted to learn.
I was little more comfortable after saw the men danced with the women. Then I finally had the chance to dance with an Argentine woman in BsAs. I was nervous, and kept telling myself:" you can do it, relax."
The first sequence was easy, I got it. And Andres corrected me once and I did it right. He was approved, so was the girl that I danced with. Their embrace was different, very much like I saw on youtube. Then he added it with the pivot, I got it first. But with the second chica, I messed up really bad. One of the reason was her breathing sort of interfering my mind. She kept telling me:" Tranquillo, tranquillo." I kept apologizing and stopped when I made a mistake. She was patient. Finally I got into the music and led her for a few songs.
I was soaked wet after the class, partly because of the temperature in the room, but mainly becuase I was nervous dancing with that chica. It was a very good class, I learnt what I wanted to learn and it costed only 10 pesos.
I felt pain in my left leg, so I took the cab back to Santa Fe. Walked around a bit and couldn't find any place for parilla on Santa fe. Disappointed and tired, I picked up a 16 peso Malbec and headed back to the apartment by subway. By this time, I was comfortable with the subway system in BA already. And it is so inexpensive. .75 per ride, about a quarter. Can't beat that.
Got off at Palermo on D (green)line, walked around and found only pizzerias. Wanted to have some beef, I finally went to a McDonald for a big Mac. Yes, a big Mac on thanksgiving day in BA. How pathetic! I was going to have a big Mac with my Malbec.
Then I passed this restaurant and saw the beef, chicken and sausage on a grill. Wow, finally, some meat, order two slice of beef and two sausage to go. cost: 20 peso.
Came back to the apartment. Electricity was back on. The lovely and beautiful young owner of the apartment left me a note. She fixed it.
Enjoyed two very nice glass of red wine, nice Parillo, now I am ready for the big night at Nino Bien.
that I make my pilgrimage to Buenos Aires. That's it, after over one year of frantic milonga life in NYC, I am going to its birthplace. How exciting!
It is 2:00am in the morning and I just came back from the six anniversary milonga at La Boca. Am I already living a Porteno's life, dancing till dawn? And I haven't even packed yet...
The thing about tango is that it brings people together, for good or for bad. I think of myself man of many interests. I've tried and done many different things in life. I haven't, however, found anything remotely close to the bond of tango people have.
Maybe in the moment of true close embrace we all drop our guards and rediscover the relationship between human beings. And we share the same passion and love for tango. I have received so many suggestions, infos and recommendations from fellow tango blogger, fellow tangueras and tangueros, that make me get to know the city so much before I even set my foot on the land.
I feel that I've already danced in the milongas of Nino Bien, salon canning, Porteno y Bailarin... by reading the vivid posts from fellow tango bloggers. I've possessed the knowledge of the codigos and etiquettes, after being educated by those who have been there and living there.
I feel so much warmth in the words of the e-mails from the people I have never met and hopefully at some point meet in my life. I feel that they are sharing their experiences of joy with their words. And they are as excited, if not more, as I am about the trip. And that feeling is contagious.
So, thank you, thank you, and thank you to my fellow tango bloggers, my dear tanguera y tanguero friends. You've helped me to understand tango more...
One more day, I will be on my way to BsAs. Thinking of that, my heart is pounding. Check out the BA weekly blog, it has lots of photos of BsAs and couple of links to interesting sites. I already like the city from the photos that I saw on the posts. You know what TB, I can even have Dim Sum at Belgrano's little chinatown if I ever get sick of parilla.
It looks like Palermo Viejo has a lots of cool places to hang out: bars, restaurants, ice cream shops and clubs where gorgeous women frequented. Thanks again Eva for her recommendation and my partner for her kind assistance including maps of Palermo. And a few dear tangueras' informative e-mails.
It is truly a city that never sleeps. The blog BA Weekly has inspired me picking up my camera again. I haven't taken photos for so long, my old digital Nikon still looks brand new. I am taking total 20GB of all sorts of memory cards and three extra batteries with me. With a extra hard drive of 120GB, I will probably take home thousands of pictures and hours of videos.
The best of all, I have the chance to learn from Javier and Andrea. Hopefully, they will help me and show me the way.
Already, I am itching to press that "book" button for another ticket back in March, with a few more friends this time.
I can't remember when was the last time that I slept more than ten hours a day. Well, I needed it apparently. For the next two weeks, I doubt I will get much sleep.
Confirmed with TangoCherie about Thursday night, Nino Bien it is. From what I read, this is the MILONGA on Thursday night. I think I will get some shoe shopping done before heading to Nino Bien. And also need to contact a few acquaintances down there.
Friday, I will go to Maipu 444. From EB 's post, it sounds like the place to go on Friday night. Maybe an afternoon milonga before that, or a class with Javier and Andrea.
Will start packing today. I will pack light, but take an empty suit case with me. I am sure I will need it later.
I am restless. Actually I am missing New York already: La Nacional on Thursday, Lafayette Grill on Wednesday. But adventure is ahead...
Went to the maestro's milonga last night, last one for me till next year. Maestro will be back to BA on the day that I intend to return and stay there for two months.
Maxi Copello and Maria Blanco's performance was absolutely amazing. She was fantastic. The precision, energy and elegance of her footwork were mesmerizing. All eyes were on her. That's what a good lead does, making the woman look beautiful.
I had three tandas with two acquaintances. Then I was ready to leave. But I wanted to dance this young and beautiful "beginner". I haven't seen her for a few weeks. She was looking so good even though she was dancing with a few not-so-good leaders.
I chatted with her during the breaks of songs.
"Haven't seen you at LG for a while." I asked.
"Oh, I am taking Omar Vega's class on Wednesday now." She smiled.
"Great, How is it? I am planning to take some when I come back from BA." I was curious about Mr.Vega's milonga workshop.
"Well, it is good in general. Pace is slow because he relies on translator. And the level is mixed." I nodded understandably " Then I learn to stick with the people whom I know from the studio."
She becomes a sweetheart of the guys here at the studio. And she is learning to stay away from the bad leaders as well.
"So Are you still taking classes at the studio." I continued as the music began.
"Yes, how can I not. I am taking six." She was so proud of herself.
"Wow, that's great as long as you are enjoying it." She reminded me my beginner's day, tried to absorb everything like a brand new sponge in the water. "I used to take eleven a week." We both smiled.
She definitely got a lot better since last time I danced with her just a few weeks ago; more confident, more relaxed, more into the music and dance (judged from the rhythm of her breath). I think that she's passed her beginner's stage. It is harvest time for her to enjoy tango for all the hard work she's put in.
Number of tandas that I've danced: 6 Number of request for my e-mail address: 5, Number of e-mail address given: 3, Number of New Yorker who I know also going to BsAs next week: 6 Number of people who I know and dance tango, have gone to BsAs many times but don't know who Javier Rodriguez is: 6 Number of compliment received: 2 number of complain received: 1
"You have to give me stronger lead in Milonga... That was much better."
Tangospeak has an interesting post about feeling in tango. Incidently, maestro told us something last night about a student whom came to him for a private lesson. A well to do married woman, who was going to have her first tango lesson. When maestro tried to embrace her, she froze as being attacked: "Oh,NO! I can't do that, I am married!" We couldn't stop but laugh.
Here is a excerpt from Javier's workshop in Hong Kong. Just so you know, in Chinese culture, not until recent twenty years, any physical contact between man and woman who are not spouses was deemed inappropriate.
" .. To feel in tango, there's nothing about sex, or whatever beyond the dance, tango is a very pure form of love, to care about one person, just in one dance, and after that, it's your own life, there's nothing to be afraid of ... "
"... when i dance, or perform, i try to feel, because i know if i don't feel anything, my partner won't be able to feel anything and the audience just won't feel anything at all ..."
When I dance with some women, even in close embrace, I feel the distance and reluctance of being close and slight resistance into the embrace. It was like the women were avoiding contacts to their breasts. For me, as a leader, it becomes a distraction in the dance when I have to constantly think about the embrace.
I guess it is probably the main reason so many young people prefer nuevo style. In open embrace, without the physical contact, they don't have to commit or share or open up to a stranger.
Maybe just the people who have experienced of love, loss of love and the ups and downs in life can fully understand tango and the feeling in close embrace.
"Yes things are rough. Here life is super expensive and unemployment is over 10% in Europe. People are not spending money but nervous about paying their mortgages (like in the states). To make it worst the new government has raisen taxes and people are mad.
But we are all healthy and that is important.
Hang in there and keep doing the Tango..I can't think of a better way to go. Good for you. "
----re: Hello from Italy
"...Boy keep dancing......."-re:PS
That's it. I am going to the Afternoon Milonga after work.
I was dancing, the tanda was D'Arienzo's. I was in this huge milonga, very crowdy; yet the energy was flowing and in harmony. Then there was this noise coming from nowhere, loud, squeaking.
"Spur is having problem penetrating, Dallas...."
What the...? I opened my eyes, and my TV was on TNT. Spur Vs Dallas, 3rd quarter. What the time is it? I suddenly realized I was late for my 9:30 private with maestro. I overslept my tango nap.
I ran out of the house and jumped into the car. It was 10:10 then, called Maestro and partner, told them " I am coming..."
Luckily the traffic was light, I did 65 on a 50 limit highway. Twenty minutes after, I was at the studio.
Apparently, partner had a good class with maestro. I had about 5 minutes to dance a song with partner. Off we went.
Four steps.... Stop. Too soft, too many tiny steps. More energy! Dance lower. Go again...
Readjusted the embrace and connected with partner first, and relaxed the knees. Yes, very nice. Very good.
Then maestro taught me the highlight of the class. " Focus on the hips, hers and yours." I am not going to go into detail how and what to do with ones' hips (core is more proper). But what a difference it made when i followed it. The control and quality of the dance was changed dramatically. And my partner definitely felt the lead much better and stronger (not physically though).
That was it. Five minutes with maestro and I got over the biggest hurdle I had for months: how to dance with my core (hips is misguiding). It clicked.
Then we all went to La Nacional. Maxi Copello and Maria Blanco were there, so was Omar Vega. Maestro so proudly pointed us out to Omar Vega while we were on the floor: these are my students, they are the best on the floor (it was a slow night.). Mr Vega agreed.
He told us that later, which brought huge grin on my face and sparks in partner's lovely blue eyes. Hard work paid off...
During my new morning ritual: reading tango blogs between coffee and bagel with a morning tanda playing in the background. I dug up this post from La Tanguera's blog, which is related to another post from TangoScopio:
"... que los milongueros y milongueras tenian cada uno medio corazon, y formaban uno al unirse en un baile, de ahi la hermosura del tango, y tambien la verdadera necesidad ellos ir a bailar para sentirse 'completos'. y si, a veces ese medio corazon suele ser insuficiente para sentir fuera de las milongas. Pero tambien, a veces, ese medio corazon encuentra uno y medio para complementarlo."
It was a good chance to learn a few Spanish words while typing out this paragraph. Learning Spanish and the lyrics are part of the learning experience of tango.
When I first started tango, I thought:" wow, this is heaven for single guys.". What else can get you so close to a woman and to so many women? I was driven to be a very good dancer so I can dance with the prettiest and the sexiest, and many of them. A good dancer I became, I found different meanings in tango.
Dancing with friends, I've found joy and peace. Dancing with Strangers, I've found passion and thrill. What I long for, however, is to dance with some one whom I care, and find love. (I know! It sounds hopeless romantic, even downright stupid and naive.)
I have tasted passion. Passion was consuming. It was like drinking double shots of strong whiskey; it burned my throat, warmed my stomach and numbed my mind, sometimes blinded me too. But the sensation was short lived. And I had to risk a hangover.
I have experienced thrill. It was exciting and heart pounding. But I couldn't handle thrill on the daily basis.
For a short time, I thought I have found some one whom i like and would like to care for. The dance was different from then on. I had experienced something magical in the dance.
Then the past couple of weeks I had been lost in the " she likes me, she likes me not..." state of mind. When the "she likes me not" struck, I felt I could have moved to the faraway land where tango can be danced anytime of the day. Two nights ago, after a glass of fine aged tequila, I dreamed about being happy in the foreign land, where I find my tango love.
I think it happened to a lot of people. When they are not happy with their lives, they find happiness elsewhere. There is an old Chinese saying: " Tree dies when it is moved, people live however." A new environment is sometimes good for the soul.
But every time the plane descends to this city from the many foreign lands that I've travel to, I look out the windows and feel that I am home again. Here I have my family, my friends and the memories of all these years. My heart is still here. This is my home.
So tonight, it suddenly struck me that I looked at the whole thing the wrong way. I trapped myself unwisely. I should read it as Yuenfen hasn't arrived yet. If it doesn't feel right, then probably it is not meant to.
There, I no longer look at BsAs as an escape but an opportunity to grow as a better tango dancer and better prepared when Yuen finally arrives and the love strikes. I feel liberated from my own dark thoughts and depression. I can sleep quietly now.
Rested for one night and two days, I was feeling itchy feet.This Sunday night was the reopening of La Milonguita Ideal with live music. It is on 31st street between fifth and sixth, just right off midtown tunnel. So I drove off after the Rockets game (and they won, one more reason to celebrate with tango.:) ).
Sunday night milongas are slower. Even it was the reopening night, the crowd was not that thick, comparing to last year. I just realized how quickly a year has gone by. And what a different dancer I am now.
The living music is fun to dance to. I love dancing to Tito Castro's bandoneon. He knows how to work the crowd. But sometimes the musician get carried away in their own music, and they forget about the dancers. I felt that way about the music tonight. So I decided to wait.
I went to the snack table instead, sandwiches, hams, veggie dips, candies, and some Argentine wine. Omar Vega came over and said hola. He seemed to be nice guy contrary to what I heard. I will take some of his classes after come back(if I do come back) from BsAs in December.
I started dancing when the recorded music was playing. First with an acquaintance, who just came back from BsAs, she again complimented my lead. Then I met a pretty young girl with long dark hair, whom is going to BsAs next week with a friend. Wow, I might see a lot of New Yorker in BsAs from what I learned so far. I meant to ask her for a tanda, but she was busy the whole night.
I danced with a former tango schoolmate. We started tango the same time. We had a good tanda, until the live music came back and I lost in interpreting the music and became less sure in the lead. We walked off the floor after the second live one.
Maestro was in the house. I chatted with him. He told me the cell phone was fine now. He had it fixed. He looked relaxed. Then this chica walked over. She exchanged a kiss on the cheek with Maestro. And she saw me standing with him and smiled at me. They went off to the dance floor. She is a fabulous dancer who went to the final of Compeonado Mundial this year. Maybe next time I could ask her for a tanda without getting turned down.
There came one of my favourite Tanturi tanda starting with Una Emocion. I went to the runner up of 1st USA tango championship. The first time I danced with her was at the same studio last year. I thought she was amazing then. We haven't had the chance to dance for a couple months. She looked happy that I asked.
Her embrace was different yet very comfortable. Her face was on my cheek. I could feel her eye lids closed and the slight movement of them. Our noses were so closed that I felt as if we were breathing together. And I breathed in the faint smell of wine from her. It was so intoxicating... I was getting fond of this embrace.
I love Tanturi and the tanda was great. She excused herself after one tanda: she had too much wine and she was afraid of not being at her best. I walked her back to her seat.
And that was it for me for the night. I chatted and socialized for the rest of the evening and left around 11:00pm. Got another compliment from a guy, whom danced tango for eight years and danced everything else since the 60's, on my way out. I remained modest:"still get a lot to learn."
Skipped all nighter's six anniversary, stayed home instead to catch up with the sleep. I have to rest up before the trip. I doubt that I will sleep much in BsAs. Dug up some old video which is kinda cool.
was potent. Or was it just me being a cheap drunk (mind you, I had drunk a bottle of vodka and was still conscious afterwards.)? Or maybe it was the rain. Anyway, it was depressing earlier at Ukrainian last night. I went because my DJ friend was deedaying there.
I chatted with a tango friend of mine. It turned out he is now taking lessons at the school that I hated the most. He wanted to dance with all those babes. Ur..one more reason to get a beer.
"Try to Russian one. It was good." he recommended. We continued our conversation about his relationship, tango workshop, private, and of course women... er, more reason to drink up. I finished the bottle before he took two sips of his wine.
I felt a bit tipsy. Shit. Now I got my eyes on this young woman DJ friend was dancing with, whom just came in and smiled at me when she passed the bar. She seemed to follow very well, good embrace, decent walk and turn. A slow night like this, she was the star.
I didn't have the chance to ask her until after the performance break. And it was lovely. It might be the alcohol, but I felt like I was dancing in my dream.
She was light like a feather. I felt like floating above the floor. "Think grounded, think grounded." I reminded myself a few times. " dance lower" Maestro's voice echoed in my ears... it must be the GD Russian beer.
Her embrace was the one that I feel most comfortably : chest to chest. She was relaxed. That allowed us just concentrating on the connection. During the second tanda, she slided up her left arm around my shoulder and allowed herself deeper into my embrace. Her palm gently caressed the back of my neck... I couldn't help but moved my right hand lower to her waist and held her a little tighter. We connected from bellybutton up. I was more grounded then, the walks were stronger.
At the end of each song from the second tanda, I held her a few moments before broke the embrace. She was there, torsos still connected. I gently shook my body, like rocking a baby into sleep, and I felt the warmth of her body and the faint heartbeat next to my chest.
She was not a breather, but I replaced that sense by secretly sniffed the scent of her dark hair. I felt like a thief, but I pardoned myself because of the GD Russian beer. Three non stop tandas after, I was exhausted emotionally and physically.
The moment I left the floor, I was feeling a bit lost. She is from out of town, and I probably won't see her again.
" That was very nice, you and that young woman. You guys looked great." My dear tango friend said to me with a wink and tricky smile.
"I always make the woman look great." I winked back. " GD, I am cocky." I laughed.
My DTF seemed to see through my mind. Older women are wiser. She got me on the reason that I was drinking too.
"Gee, I am so sick of these tango scenes. I feel like I can take off tomorrow." I whined again to my DTF. I had a bottle of Russian beer, therefore all the misbehaves, if there was any, should be excused as under the influence.
I got home safely. A small glass of limoni after, my warm bed seems to be right place to go.
This morning I dream of dancing with a pretty Argentine with long dark hair to Al Compas De un Tango, on the empty floor of the old, now gone Club Espanol.
